On Tuesday, July 26, City of Chicago Mayor Rahm Emanuel will be holding a press conference to announce his Urban Agriculture policy proposal for the City. The event will be held at Growing Power's Chicago headquarters, located at 3333 South Iron Street, and will take place at 9 am.

Please come out and celebrate the Mayor's early efforts to improve Urban Agriculture and Food Policy within the city. The Iron Street farm is located West of the US Cellular Field, near 35th and Ashland. We hope to see you tomorrow morning!


Allyson M. Harmon
Food Policy Intern
Growing Power, Inc.
(773)-376-8882
cell: (217)-791-2716

To spray or not to spray may be the question of the season in the garden, said a University of Illinois Extension horticulture educator.

"Yes, it's a parody on a famous saying, but perhaps it will cause you to stop and think before grabbing a bottle of pesticide," said Martha Smith.

"Integrated Pest Management stresses monitoring your landscape and keeping a keen eye out for problems. We should be asking if it's a good time to spray or if there is an alternative.

"Most pest problems start out small. Perhaps an infested branch can be removed or critters can be picked by hand off a plant. It can save you time, energy, money and chemicals being added to the environment. If you seldom stroll through your landscape, you might not see a pest until it has consumed a major portion of your investment. By that time, a chemical control may be the only choice."

Smith offered some guidelines if you choose to combat garden pests with chemicals.

· Read the label. Understand what the product is intended to do and the best timing for application. When during the life span of the pest is it best to apply? Correct timing will give the best control with the least amount of chemical.

· Correctly identify the pest. Caterpillars resemble sawfly larvae, but the products to control them can be different. Also, is that caterpillar a true pest? If you choose a caterpillar control, don't question the absence of butterflies later in the season. Caterpillars can be voracious eaters, but the majority will turn into colorful butterflies.

· Mix the material as directed. Avoid thinking that if one teaspoon is recommended, two teaspoons will be better. Effectiveness will not be increased by doubling the amount of chemical. In fact, higher concentrations can harm plants.

· Follow all personal safety instructions on the label. A sleeveless tank top and flip-flop sandals are probably not the recommended protective clothing. Consider a long-sleeved shirt, long pants, eye protection, socks, closed-toe shoes and gloves even if they are not already instructed on the label.

· Use measuring utensils; don't guess at amounts. Have a set of measuring utensils specifically designated for chemicals. Write on them "chemicals only." Don't use utensils that are also used in food preparation.

· Spray on target. Don't apply a chemical across a 20-foot border when only two to three square feet require attention becaise it may not be necessary. Read the label to learn if the entire plant should be sprayed. Spray to the point of runoff and stop.

· Application equipment should be in good working order. Leaks can lead to damage on non-targeted plants. Use equipment that is recommended on the label.

· Spray when the weather is calm. Pesticide drift occurs when spray is carried off target by the wind. Drift can also be minimized by spraying at a lower pressure and using the largest nozzle opening that will still allow you to complete the task.

· Avoid spraying during the heat of the day. Some pesticides will burn plant material if they are applied when temperatures are too hot. High temperatures can also cause some pesticides to evaporate and decompose quickly. Spray in the morning.

· Avoid spraying before rain or before overhead irrigation, which will reduce the spray's effectiveness by washing the material off the target plant and possibly leading to groundwater contamination.

"Keep these spray guidelines in mind when selecting a pest control for your landscape," Smith said. "Monitor and identify the pest early. Consider your control options. Remember your control selection may not be what your neighbor would choose."

Source: Martha A. Smith, Extension Educator, Horticulture, smithma@illinois.edu

Jim Langcuster of the Alabama Cooperative Extension System says,"There is a place for Extension educators in the new 21st century information order, but only if we transform ourselves into engaged, networked educators – people who not only inspire their clients but also help them learn and adapt within this radically new world and flattened knowledge landscape. We must become fully engaged, fully networked educators who use social media to disseminate knowledge to much larger audiences and to develop two-way, reciprocal relationships with those audiences."

For More Information >>>

Japanese beetles have extended their territory in 2011. Many can simply look outside at their linden, elm, roses, etc. to see that these small metallic green and bronze-colored beetles have ventured into virgin territory. Producers are also noting their advance in 2011 as the beetles chew on row crops and specialty crops which leads to some questions.

Question One: What does the lifecycle look like for Japanese beetles?

Answer: They go through a yearlong lifecycle. Adults tend to emerge around the latter part of June. They mate, lay an egg or two, and continue the process for just over a month. Adults can feed on several hundred different plant species. The beetles will devour leaves, portions of the tassel in corn, and silks. Resulting white grubs (the juvenile stage of the beetle) are sensitive to dry soils and devour grass roots until October temperatures bring them to a halt. Feeding resumes the following spring with the grubs completing development toward early/mid June. Grubs go through a total of three instars (growth stages). At that time, grubs change into teardrop-shaped pupae that are initially light brown and which later turn metallic green.

Question Two: Why do Japanese Beetles congregate in mass?

Answer: They congregate for a few reasons. First, females release a pheromone (mating attractant) as they feed, drawing in males, which also begin to feed. Secondly, the first beetles in an area release another set of chemicals that alert other beetles to the presence of a food source. Finally, the beetles are also attracted to damaged foliage. These characteristics have led the University to discourage homeowners and producers from using Japanese beetle traps. Traps draw in beetles via the use of a pheromone. Beetles begin to feed on surrounding plant material causing damage and releasing attractants that draw in additional beetles – both male and female. Females then release more pheromones, and a snowball effect results in which beetle numbers can literally skyrocket. Stated bluntly – producers and homeowners should "ditch" the traps.

Question Three: How far can Japanese beetle adults fly?

Answer: Japanese beetles can fly miles. Because of this, the U of I typically does not recommend grub management in the spring to manage adult beetles. Grub management with the intention of managing adults is simply a "teaspoon in the ocean." Grubs may be eliminated from your property, but adults will simply emerge and fly in from everyone else's untreated property.

Question Four: Are there any great non-chemical control options for Japanese beetles?

Answer: During the day, Japanese beetles violently buzz around. During the evening, they seem to calm down quite a bit. Around the home, this means that one can simply touch the beetle and have it drop into soapy water thus eliminating it. Unfortunately, producers raising row crops and specialty crops don't have any convenient non-chemical control options available to them.

Question Five: How important is scouting for Japanese beetles in the field?

Answer: Scouting fields is essential. Beans require 30 percent defoliation pre-bloom. That is not 30 percent in an isolated area – that is 30 percent of all the leaves removed from the entire field. Such field densities are often not reached even when significant damage is rampant on area ornamentals. In corn, fertilization progress is the key. Producers can check fertilization in corn by carefully shucking the ear and shaking it. Fertilized silks will fall from the ear. Once about three-fourths of the ear is established – the opportunity for the Japanese beetle to impact yield evaporates. As a result, field edges are often hit severely while the majority of the field's interior establishes the ear unhindered. If the majority of the field has established the ear, subsequent Japanese beetle pressure is a non-issue, but scouting is the only way to tell.

Source: Matt Montgomery, Extension Educator, Local Food Systems and Small Farms, mpmontgo@illinois.edu

Intense summer storms have seemed to be on the increase the last couple of years. The Chicagoland area was recently hit with wind, rain and hail storms, downing numerous trees and knocking out power for 800,000 ComEd customers. The following are resources to help you prepare for and survive violent summer weather.

Family Disaster Supply Kit http://bit.ly/nJcg8J

NOAA: Heat is the number one weather-related killer in the United States http://1.usa.gov/oMuIu3

Thunderstorms (U of IL Extension) http://bit.ly/q4NYO4

Tornadoes - Disaster Resources (U of IL Extension) http://bit.ly/oveuEc

Lightning and Personal Safety (U of IL Extension) http://bit.ly/onNInR

Flooding - Disaster Resources (U of IL Extension) http://bit.ly/oysOxY

Flood Recovery Checklists (NDSU Extension) http://www.ag.ndsu.edu/pubs/ageng/structu/de1519.pdf

City of Chicago: Flood Preparedness http://bit.ly/oqIiRZ

Cleaning and Repairing Flooded Basements http://lincoln.uwex.edu/files/2011/04/Cleaning-and-Repairing-Flooded-Basements.pdf

Flooded basement? Here's how to cope (Chicago Tribune) http://trib.in/nQmqEF

Repair Storm Damaged Trees with Care (U of IL Extension) http://bit.ly/mmo495

Safe food handling during power outages (U of IL Extension) http://bit.ly/oeXDJi

Frozen Foods: When to Save and When to Throw Out (U of IL Extension) http://t.co/1ttJseb

Refrigerated Foods: When to Save and When to Throw Out (U of IL Extension) http://bit.ly/q20nUW

Using Generators for Emergency Power (LSU Extension) http://bit.ly/q2RBwm

Using Portable Generators Safely http://www.osha.gov/OshDoc/data_Hurricane_Facts/portable_generator_safety.pdf

People who are investigating organic gardening often do so because they wish to garden while providing healthier food for their family and protecting the environment and their communities, said a University of Illinois Extension horticulture educator.

"There is a lot of confusion about what it means to garden organically," Nancy Pollard said. "The term organic gardening was first used in the United States by J.I. Rodale about 1940. The foundation of organic gardening is the use of composted organic matter to keep soil healthy and productive. There are many additional principles. Organic production allows the use of hybrid plants with desirable traits. It generally disallows genetic engineering methods for recombining DNA into genetically modified organisms (GMOs)."

What is organic matter? "When once living material thoroughly decomposes under healthy conditions, it is called compost," Pollard explained. "Some examples of compost are decomposed grass clippings and cow manure. Naturally decomposed material like sphagnum peat moss is also organic matter."

How does organic matter help? "Organic matter helps the soil act like a sponge to retain moisture in a way that is usable for plant growth," Pollard said. "It also improves drainage, allowing the soil spaces to hold some oxygen for healthy root growth." Various sources of compost contain different kinds and amounts of nutrients, depending on what organic matter decomposed.

"As a result, different composts have different values as fertilizer," Pollard said. "Well-composted organic materials build soil quality while adding nutrients that are not easily washed away. Choosing organic fertilizers over synthetic ones can reduce pollution in streams and lakes and other sources of drinking water."

Certified Organic is a legal term. The Organic Foods Production Act of 1990 governs the use of the term certified organic when the sales of products are involved. Its rules usually exclude the use of synthetic pesticides and chemical fertilizers, but allow for pesticides and fertilizers derived from naturally occurring materials, with some exceptions to both rules.

For more information, visit http://www.ams.usda.gov.

Pollard offered a history lesson about chemicals.

"Applying organic matter was the primary way to fertilize crops until the 1930s," she said. "At that time, chemical plants making nitrates for World War I munitions were repurposed to produce synthetic chemical nitrogen and other fertilizers to help farmers feed a growing population.

"Erosion of exposed soils and concerns about nutrient-rich runoff from both organic and inorganic fertilizers polluting water supplies resulted in shifting interests toward sustainable environmental stewardship," she said.

Naturally occurring pesticides like sulfur, mercury, lead, arsenic, and ash were used for centuries. Clearly not everything produced by nature is friendly to life, she said.

"Synthetic pesticides production began around World War II," she said. "While these new pesticides saved lives and reduced crop failure due to pests, it soon became evident that broad- spectrum pesticides killed more than the target pest. Unintended consequences have led the Environmental Protection Agency to evaluate risks and remove many pesticides from the marketplace. Both organically approved and synthetic pesticides have some level of toxicity.

"Looking to manage gardens in the least toxic, most environmentally friendly way is in the best interests of everyone," she said.

Source: Nancy Pollard, Extension Educator, Horticulture, pollard@illinois.edu

Many evergreen trees are experiencing needle dieback this year. According to Rhonda Ferree, extension educator in horticulture, the cold, wet spring has brought out many tree diseases that are causing significant damage on evergreens throughout central Illinois.

In particular, spruce and pine trees show needle browning and dieback. Spruce trees have small needles arranged along the stem. Pine trees have needles in bundles of two, three, or five along the stem.

Spruce trees are experiencing three different diseases, each with slightly different symptoms and treatment. First is Rhizosphaera needle cast. Spruce trees with purple/brown one- and two-year-old needles are suspect. The newest growth will appear green. Affected needles are cast (dropped). Since evergreens do not re-foliate along the branches, the disease will cause bare areas scattered throughout the tree. Norway spruces are considered resistant to this needle cast while Colorado blue spruce is a common host.

The second disease we see regularly on spruce in Illinois is Cytospora canker. That disease causes entire branches to turn purple/brown. Cytospora affects all needles from the tip of the branch to the base. Often lower branches are affected first. The disease may progress up the tree slowly, killing branches over a number of years. The fungus is known as a stress pathogen, meaning it invades spruce trees growing in less than ideal sites or environmental conditions.

Third, the University of Illinois Plant Clinic recently confirmed a new spruce disease in Illinois called Sudden Needle Drop (SNEED). SNEED has been found on Norway, white and Colorado blue spruce trees. Symptoms of SNEED are yellowing and eventual browning of older needles. Typically, by the end of summer, all of the needles on affected branches fall off except the newest needles on the tips of the branches.

Pines are prone to several diseases as well, including diplodia blight, pine wilt, and Dothistroma blight. All three diseases will cause needles to turn brown. The pattern of symptoms will help with diagnosis in each case.

The main disease that Rhonda has seen this year is diplodia on Austrian Pine. Diplodia tip blight causes entire needles to turn brown, not just tips of needles as might occur with Dothistroma blight, scorch, salt injury, or transplant shock. Diplodia blight causes all of the needles at the tip of a branch to turn brown.

Several practices can help reduce the amount of damage caused by these diseases. When the foliage is dry, remove dead branches and dead stem tips. Because the fungus survives on cones, rake and remove fallen cones throughout the season. Stressed trees are typically more susceptible to infection, so follow proper watering and fertilization to keep trees healthy. Chemical options are available for some diseases, but sprays this late in the season are not beneficial.

For more information on these diseases and more, read the Home, Yard, and Garden Newsletter from University of Illinois Extension at http://hyg.ipm.illinois.edu/index.php. You can also find out more information on this or other horticultural issues by contacting your local Extension office at www.extension.illinois.edu. You can also post questions on Rhonda's facebook page at www.facebook.com/ferree.horticulture.

Source: Rhonda J. Ferree, Associate Regional Director, ferreer@illinois.edu