Chicago Urban Gardening

Adressing Fragility in Food Distribution (Part 1)

rwolford@illinois.edu(Ron Wolford) — 2011-09-25T14:29:00+05:00

The United States has one of the most effective and efficient food production and food distribution systems ever created by man. That system makes the quality of life that we experience in the 21^st century possible. However, that system can be rather fragile. The average unit of food consumed travels nearly 1500 miles from its place of origin before it arrives on one's plate. That we can transport goods like this is incredible, but citizens can easily lose access to this incredible system in one of four ways. It is not alarmist to imagine that one of the following scenarios will likely occur within the next 15 years.

First, access to food could be hampered by food safety concerns. E coli and Salmonella outbreaks have compromised portions of that distribution system over the past few years, and such an outbreak – in the right locale – could possibly eliminate much larger components of that system.

Second, the system itself can be compromised by natural disasters. Illinois residents have seen the very real breakdown in food supply following hurricanes and flooding in other parts of our country. Similar problems can arise in the state of Illinois. The most likely events include severe blizzards, flooding, and tornados – all of which can, given the right combination of events, collapse access to the food distribution system for a period of time. A more extreme - yet very possible – example is a solar storm. A severe solar storm could destroy the electrical grid and could destroy food distribution overnight. It would take weeks or months to recover from such an event (some say even longer). Combine this with the fact that most Illinois grocery stores have a few to several day supply of food, and one finds that a single natural disaster could quickly cascade into a much larger disaster.

Third, the food distribution system could be compromised by a terrorist attack. The type of attack capable of doing this would dwarf that of September 11, 2001. We have all heard the possible scenarios (scenarios that span from nuclear attacks to the use of biological agents). The attacks of ten years ago actually provide an example of this because they did have an impact on that system. Coffee distribution was briefly disrupted as aircraft were grounded. It takes little skill/imagination to extrapolate that food distribution impact to one of the scenarios mentioned earlier.

Fourth, economic instability can compromise access to the food distribution system. An example of this can be found in southern Illinois where economic stress has resulted in some areas with marginal access to groceries. The United States is in the third year of what is now being called "The Great Recession." Should our economic woes continue the situation in southern Illinois could be transferred to other regions and multiplied.

How can we address this fragility? The solution to this problem is two-fold. First, we must guide Illinois toward more resiliency in our current food production/food distribution system. We should find ways to build more fail safes into the system and we should build contingencies into the system that better weather natural disasters and terrorist attacks. Second, we must institute mechanisms that reduce the impact should the food production/food distribution system be compromised. We must develop mechanisms that provide some marginal level of support when our efforts toward resiliency fail. We will detail the local Extension office's approach to this two-fold strategy in the second part of this column.

Source: Matt Montgomery, Extension Educator, Local Food Systems and Small Farms, mpmontgo@illinois.edu

U of IL Student Farm Provides More than Locally Grown Produce

rwolford@illinois.edu(Ron Wolford) — 2011-09-21T14:21:00+05:00

Students discovered that the University of Illinois Sustainable Student Farm (SSF) provides more than locally grown produce at the second annual open house last Thursday, said Bruce Branham, a professor in the Department of Crop Sciences.

"We want to raise awareness of the student farm in addition to issues regarding our food systems and supplies," Branham said. "The farm is also a tool to show students where their food comes from."

Branham said more than 300 students, faculty, staff and community members attended this year's open house, a 100 percent improvement from last year's attendance.

"In addition to the horticulture and crop sciences students one would expect to see, we have had a lot interest from students in engineering, liberal arts and sciences, and other areas of study," Branham said.

Tours of the three-acre sustainable farm informed attendees about the day-to-day operations that provide the campus community with sustainable, locally grown food. Visitors also had the opportunity to taste this farm-fresh produce at a sampling provided by the U of I Dining Services. The menu included poblano corn tartlets, gazpacho shooters, pesto pasta salad, and pork loin with an apple chutney and sausage.

SSF produce is sold to U of I dining services for the residence halls and campus catering services. Produce is also sold at the SSF farm stand from June through November on the Quad directly behind the Illini Union every Thursday from 11:30 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Despite these outlets, the farm is struggling to turn a profit due to the nature of running a sustainable farm. "Pesticides are a labor-saving tool," Branham said. "It takes a lot of labor to produce food sustainably, especially when we don't have the equipment we need to be more efficient."

Marlon Mueller-Soppart, a freshman in the College of Business, said the university should be a marker of sustainability.

"I believe sustainability is one of the only ways we can continue living on this planet," he said. "I wanted to find out how to be more sustainable, because frankly I don't have much of an idea about what it actually takes." Mueller-Soppart said he wants to get involved and see how farming "actually works."

"Agriculture is the foundation of everything' and I respect farmers a lot," he said. "I am from the city so I don't know anything about farming. It is good to see the other side of things."

Students can volunteer at the farm from February through November.

For more information about the farm or to sign up to volunteer, http://thefarm.illinois.edu/

Source: Bruce Branham, (217) 333-7848, bbranham@illinois.edu.

News writer: Claire Benjamin
phone: ; email: benjami3@illinois.edu

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Photos from the event

In the Garden: Other Things Fall Besides Bulbs

rwolford@illinois.edu(Ron Wolford) — 2011-09-18T23:03:00+05:00

Cool, crisp weather has finally arrived after a very hot, humid and wet summer. Planting bulbs is probably the number one garden activity that takes place in the fall, but there are a number of other gardening and fall related activities to do.

Soil Testing

Fall is a good time to have your soil tested because labs are not as busy as they are in the spring. A soil test will give you the pH and potassium, phosphorus and organic levels in your soil. PH measures the acidity or alkalinity of your soil. Most plants will grow well at pH between 6.0 and 7.5. Fall is the best time to have your soil tested because the weather is more settled than in the spring and soil labs are not as busy. To prepare a soil sample, take a trowel and collect four to six soil samples from different locations in your garden or lawn in a bucket. Spread the sample on newspaper and allow it to dry. Place about a one half pint dried soil sample in a sealed plastic bag and send it to the lab. For a listing of local soil testing labs, go to http://urbanext.illinois.edu/soiltest/. Contact the lab before sending in the sample for any special instructions.

Get Ready for Frost

Get ready for frost. On average our first fall frost occurs around October 15, but we have had frost in September. First frosts usually occur when cool weather arrives with clear nights with light winds. Open grassy areas are most likely to have frost versus areas under trees that are protected because the trees keep heat from escaping. Plantings close to the foundation of your home often survive a first frost because of the heat given off from house. To protect plants cover them with blankets, newspaper, straw, sheets, tarps, boxes, or plastic sheeting. Apply the covers later in the afternoon and remove them in the morning. Floating row covers can also protect plants. This spun polyester material will raise the temperature 2 to 5 degrees F around the plants.

Plant a Green Manure crop

Green manure crops include clover, annual ryegrass, winter wheat, winter rye and buckwheat. Green manure crops turned into the soil in the spring will improve soil structure and will add organic matter and nutrients to the soil. Sow the seed thickly. Keep moist until germination occurs. Cut back plants that flower to prevent self-seeding. In early spring turn the green manure into the soil.

Transplant perennials

Transplant and divide perennials now. If you are planning to transplant established plants, cut them back by half and move to a prepared spot. Keep watered until the plant is established. Divide perennials when flowers get smaller, when the center of the plant dies out or when the plant just gets too big. All transplanting and dividing should be completed by October 1 to allow good root development before cold weather sets in.

Plant Trees

Plant trees, shrubs and evergreens through September. Planting during this time period will allow the plant to become established before winter sets in. Water plants every 7 to 10 days during dry weather until the ground freezes.

Start a Compost Pile

Fall is a good time to start thinking about starting a compost pile. As we go later into the fall, dying plant material is more readily available for composting, plus you have all the fallen leaves. For more information on composting, check out the University of Illinois Extension website: Composting Central http://web.extension.illinois.edu/compostingcentral/

Garden Clean-up

Remove dead plants from the vegetable garden after frost. If plants were not diseased, they can be turned into the soil or placed in a compost pile. Leaving dead plants in the garden will provide a home for over wintering insects. Spread a 2 to 3 inch layer of organic matter over the garden and dig in. The garden will be ready for planting in the spring.

Prepare Amaryllis for Flowering

Stop watering amaryllis in late summer to revive the bulb for flowering. Let the leaves die. Cut the dead leaves off to within 2-3 inches of the bulb. Place the potted bulb in a cool, dark place like the basement for 6 to 8 weeks. Bring the amaryllis into a bright, warm area and start watering. Keep the soil moist. It should bloom in 4 to 8 weeks after the start of watering.

Repair Lawn

Autumn is the best time to repair lawns. Seeding bare spots in the lawn from early to mid-September will allow the new growth to have enough time to germinate, grow and harden off before cold temperatures arrive. There is less competition from weeds in the fall because a lot of the annual weeds are dying out. Plus we are usually blessed with cool temperatures in the fall which is great for growing grass. Ideally dig the soil to at least 6-8 inches deep, spread grass seed over the area and tamp down. Keep the soil moist until germination. Cover with weed free straw to conserve moisture. If you are laying down sod, water the new sod several times a day for 1-2 weeks until it begins to knit or take hold. Be sure that water goes down through the thick sod and moistens the soil underneath for good root development. Do not let sod dry out.

Dig Up Cannas and Caladiums

Dig up cannas, elephant ears and caladiums after a frost. Cut the stems back to about 4-6 inches and dig the plant up. Wash the soil off the bulbs and let them dry in the sun. Place the bulbs in a container and cover with peat moss or sawdust. Place the container in a cool room like your basement. Check the bulbs every 3 or 4 weeks for any signs of rotting. Throw the rotten bulbs away. If you notice any shriveled bulbs, mist them with a little water. Pot the bulbs up in March and place in the garden after the last spring frost.

Bring in Houseplants

Start to bring houseplants indoors before cool weather arrives. Spray the plants with a stream of water to wash off insects. Remove any dead leaves. Isolate the plants from your houseplant collection for two weeks to be sure they have no insect and disease problems.

Visit an Apple Orchard

Plan a visit to a local apple orchard. There are over 2500 apple varieties grown in the United States. Apple harvest can go from August through November. Find a local apple orchard at the University of Illinois Extension website Apples and More at www.urbanext.illinois.edu/apples.

Visit a Pumpkin Farm

Take the family to a local pumpkin farm. Choose a pumpkin with a stem and never carry it by the stem. Pumpkins without a stem will not last long. Select a pumpkin with a flat bottom, so it will stand upright. Avoid pumpkins with holes, cuts or soft spots. These areas will rot. Light colored pumpkins are easier to carve because the skin is not as hard as darker orange colored ones, but they will not keep as well. Wash the pumpkin with warm water and let it dry before carving. For a listing of pumpkin farms, check out the University of Illinois Extension website Pumpkins and More at http://urbanext.illinois.edu/pumpkins/.

For more gardening information, check out the University of Illinois Extension website: Hort Corner at http://urbanext.illinois.edu/hort/.

Mayor Emanuel to Announce Chicago Urban Ag Policy Proposal

rwolford@illinois.edu(Ron Wolford) — 2011-07-25T18:10:00+05:00

On Tuesday, July 26, City of Chicago Mayor Rahm Emanuel will be holding a press conference to announce his Urban Agriculture policy proposal for the City. The event will be held at Growing Power's Chicago headquarters, located at 3333 South Iron Street, and will take place at 9 am.

Please come out and celebrate the Mayor's early efforts to improve Urban Agriculture and Food Policy within the city. The Iron Street farm is located West of the US Cellular Field, near 35th and Ashland. We hope to see you tomorrow morning!

Allyson M. Harmon
Food Policy Intern
Growing Power, Inc.
(773)-376-8882
cell: (217)-791-2716

To Spray or Not to Spray

rwolford@illinois.edu(Ron Wolford) — 2011-07-22T15:46:00+05:00

To spray or not to spray may be the question of the season in the garden, said a University of Illinois Extension horticulture educator.

"Yes, it's a parody on a famous saying, but perhaps it will cause you to stop and think before grabbing a bottle of pesticide," said Martha Smith.

"Integrated Pest Management stresses monitoring your landscape and keeping a keen eye out for problems. We should be asking if it's a good time to spray or if there is an alternative.

"Most pest problems start out small. Perhaps an infested branch can be removed or critters can be picked by hand off a plant. It can save you time, energy, money and chemicals being added to the environment. If you seldom stroll through your landscape, you might not see a pest until it has consumed a major portion of your investment. By that time, a chemical control may be the only choice."

Smith offered some guidelines if you choose to combat garden pests with chemicals.

· Read the label. Understand what the product is intended to do and the best timing for application. When during the life span of the pest is it best to apply? Correct timing will give the best control with the least amount of chemical.

· Correctly identify the pest. Caterpillars resemble sawfly larvae, but the products to control them can be different. Also, is that caterpillar a true pest? If you choose a caterpillar control, don't question the absence of butterflies later in the season. Caterpillars can be voracious eaters, but the majority will turn into colorful butterflies.

· Mix the material as directed. Avoid thinking that if one teaspoon is recommended, two teaspoons will be better. Effectiveness will not be increased by doubling the amount of chemical. In fact, higher concentrations can harm plants.

· Follow all personal safety instructions on the label. A sleeveless tank top and flip-flop sandals are probably not the recommended protective clothing. Consider a long-sleeved shirt, long pants, eye protection, socks, closed-toe shoes and gloves even if they are not already instructed on the label.

· Use measuring utensils; don't guess at amounts. Have a set of measuring utensils specifically designated for chemicals. Write on them "chemicals only." Don't use utensils that are also used in food preparation.

· Spray on target. Don't apply a chemical across a 20-foot border when only two to three square feet require attention becaise it may not be necessary. Read the label to learn if the entire plant should be sprayed. Spray to the point of runoff and stop.

· Application equipment should be in good working order. Leaks can lead to damage on non-targeted plants. Use equipment that is recommended on the label.

· Spray when the weather is calm. Pesticide drift occurs when spray is carried off target by the wind. Drift can also be minimized by spraying at a lower pressure and using the largest nozzle opening that will still allow you to complete the task.

· Avoid spraying during the heat of the day. Some pesticides will burn plant material if they are applied when temperatures are too hot. High temperatures can also cause some pesticides to evaporate and decompose quickly. Spray in the morning.

· Avoid spraying before rain or before overhead irrigation, which will reduce the spray's effectiveness by washing the material off the target plant and possibly leading to groundwater contamination.

"Keep these spray guidelines in mind when selecting a pest control for your landscape," Smith said. "Monitor and identify the pest early. Consider your control options. Remember your control selection may not be what your neighbor would choose."

Source: Martha A. Smith, Extension Educator, Horticulture, smithma@illinois.edu

A Social Media Call to Action for Extension Educators

rwolford@illinois.edu(Ron Wolford) — 2011-07-19T01:59:00+05:00

Jim Langcuster of the Alabama Cooperative Extension System says,"There is a place for Extension educators in the new 21st century information order, but only if we transform ourselves into engaged, networked educators – people who not only inspire their clients but also help them learn and adapt within this radically new world and flattened knowledge landscape. We must become fully engaged, fully networked educators who use social media to disseminate knowledge to much larger audiences and to develop two-way, reciprocal relationships with those audiences."

For More Information >>>

Japanese Beetles: Q and A

rwolford@illinois.edu(Ron Wolford) — 2011-07-18T00:02:00+05:00

Japanese beetles have extended their territory in 2011. Many can simply look outside at their linden, elm, roses, etc. to see that these small metallic green and bronze-colored beetles have ventured into virgin territory. Producers are also noting their advance in 2011 as the beetles chew on row crops and specialty crops which leads to some questions.

Question One: What does the lifecycle look like for Japanese beetles?

Answer: They go through a yearlong lifecycle. Adults tend to emerge around the latter part of June. They mate, lay an egg or two, and continue the process for just over a month. Adults can feed on several hundred different plant species. The beetles will devour leaves, portions of the tassel in corn, and silks. Resulting white grubs (the juvenile stage of the beetle) are sensitive to dry soils and devour grass roots until October temperatures bring them to a halt. Feeding resumes the following spring with the grubs completing development toward early/mid June. Grubs go through a total of three instars (growth stages). At that time, grubs change into teardrop-shaped pupae that are initially light brown and which later turn metallic green.

Question Two: Why do Japanese Beetles congregate in mass?

Answer: They congregate for a few reasons. First, females release a pheromone (mating attractant) as they feed, drawing in males, which also begin to feed. Secondly, the first beetles in an area release another set of chemicals that alert other beetles to the presence of a food source. Finally, the beetles are also attracted to damaged foliage. These characteristics have led the University to discourage homeowners and producers from using Japanese beetle traps. Traps draw in beetles via the use of a pheromone. Beetles begin to feed on surrounding plant material causing damage and releasing attractants that draw in additional beetles – both male and female. Females then release more pheromones, and a snowball effect results in which beetle numbers can literally skyrocket. Stated bluntly – producers and homeowners should "ditch" the traps.

Question Three: How far can Japanese beetle adults fly?

Answer: Japanese beetles can fly miles. Because of this, the U of I typically does not recommend grub management in the spring to manage adult beetles. Grub management with the intention of managing adults is simply a "teaspoon in the ocean." Grubs may be eliminated from your property, but adults will simply emerge and fly in from everyone else's untreated property.

Question Four: Are there any great non-chemical control options for Japanese beetles?

Answer: During the day, Japanese beetles violently buzz around. During the evening, they seem to calm down quite a bit. Around the home, this means that one can simply touch the beetle and have it drop into soapy water thus eliminating it. Unfortunately, producers raising row crops and specialty crops don't have any convenient non-chemical control options available to them.

Question Five: How important is scouting for Japanese beetles in the field?

Answer: Scouting fields is essential. Beans require 30 percent defoliation pre-bloom. That is not 30 percent in an isolated area – that is 30 percent of all the leaves removed from the entire field. Such field densities are often not reached even when significant damage is rampant on area ornamentals. In corn, fertilization progress is the key. Producers can check fertilization in corn by carefully shucking the ear and shaking it. Fertilized silks will fall from the ear. Once about three-fourths of the ear is established – the opportunity for the Japanese beetle to impact yield evaporates. As a result, field edges are often hit severely while the majority of the field's interior establishes the ear unhindered. If the majority of the field has established the ear, subsequent Japanese beetle pressure is a non-issue, but scouting is the only way to tell.

Source: Matt Montgomery, Extension Educator, Local Food Systems and Small Farms, mpmontgo@illinois.edu

Summer Weather Resources

rwolford@illinois.edu(Ron Wolford) — 2011-07-17T13:09:00+05:00

Intense summer storms have seemed to be on the increase the last couple of years. The Chicagoland area was recently hit with wind, rain and hail storms, downing numerous trees and knocking out power for 800,000 ComEd customers. The following are resources to help you prepare for and survive violent summer weather.

Family Disaster Supply Kit http://bit.ly/nJcg8J

NOAA: Heat is the number one weather-related killer in the United States http://1.usa.gov/oMuIu3

Thunderstorms (U of IL Extension) http://bit.ly/q4NYO4

Tornadoes - Disaster Resources (U of IL Extension) http://bit.ly/oveuEc

Lightning and Personal Safety (U of IL Extension) http://bit.ly/onNInR

Flooding - Disaster Resources (U of IL Extension) http://bit.ly/oysOxY

Flood Recovery Checklists (NDSU Extension) http://www.ag.ndsu.edu/pubs/ageng/structu/de1519.pdf

City of Chicago: Flood Preparedness http://bit.ly/oqIiRZ

Cleaning and Repairing Flooded Basements http://lincoln.uwex.edu/files/2011/04/Cleaning-and-Repairing-Flooded-Basements.pdf

Flooded basement? Here's how to cope (Chicago Tribune) http://trib.in/nQmqEF

Repair Storm Damaged Trees with Care (U of IL Extension) http://bit.ly/mmo495

Safe food handling during power outages (U of IL Extension) http://bit.ly/oeXDJi

Frozen Foods: When to Save and When to Throw Out (U of IL Extension) http://t.co/1ttJseb

Refrigerated Foods: When to Save and When to Throw Out (U of IL Extension) http://bit.ly/q20nUW

Using Generators for Emergency Power (LSU Extension) http://bit.ly/q2RBwm

Using Portable Generators Safely http://www.osha.gov/OshDoc/data_Hurricane_Facts/portable_generator_safety.pdf

Some Facts about Organic Gardening

rwolford@illinois.edu(Ron Wolford) — 2011-07-17T12:50:00+05:00

People who are investigating organic gardening often do so because they wish to garden while providing healthier food for their family and protecting the environment and their communities, said a University of Illinois Extension horticulture educator.

"There is a lot of confusion about what it means to garden organically," Nancy Pollard said. "The term organic gardening was first used in the United States by J.I. Rodale about 1940. The foundation of organic gardening is the use of composted organic matter to keep soil healthy and productive. There are many additional principles. Organic production allows the use of hybrid plants with desirable traits. It generally disallows genetic engineering methods for recombining DNA into genetically modified organisms (GMOs)."

What is organic matter? "When once living material thoroughly decomposes under healthy conditions, it is called compost," Pollard explained. "Some examples of compost are decomposed grass clippings and cow manure. Naturally decomposed material like sphagnum peat moss is also organic matter."

How does organic matter help? "Organic matter helps the soil act like a sponge to retain moisture in a way that is usable for plant growth," Pollard said. "It also improves drainage, allowing the soil spaces to hold some oxygen for healthy root growth." Various sources of compost contain different kinds and amounts of nutrients, depending on what organic matter decomposed.

"As a result, different composts have different values as fertilizer," Pollard said. "Well-composted organic materials build soil quality while adding nutrients that are not easily washed away. Choosing organic fertilizers over synthetic ones can reduce pollution in streams and lakes and other sources of drinking water."

Certified Organic is a legal term. The Organic Foods Production Act of 1990 governs the use of the term certified organic when the sales of products are involved. Its rules usually exclude the use of synthetic pesticides and chemical fertilizers, but allow for pesticides and fertilizers derived from naturally occurring materials, with some exceptions to both rules.

For more information, visit http://www.ams.usda.gov.

Pollard offered a history lesson about chemicals.

"Applying organic matter was the primary way to fertilize crops until the 1930s," she said. "At that time, chemical plants making nitrates for World War I munitions were repurposed to produce synthetic chemical nitrogen and other fertilizers to help farmers feed a growing population.

"Erosion of exposed soils and concerns about nutrient-rich runoff from both organic and inorganic fertilizers polluting water supplies resulted in shifting interests toward sustainable environmental stewardship," she said.

Naturally occurring pesticides like sulfur, mercury, lead, arsenic, and ash were used for centuries. Clearly not everything produced by nature is friendly to life, she said.

"Synthetic pesticides production began around World War II," she said. "While these new pesticides saved lives and reduced crop failure due to pests, it soon became evident that broad- spectrum pesticides killed more than the target pest. Unintended consequences have led the Environmental Protection Agency to evaluate risks and remove many pesticides from the marketplace. Both organically approved and synthetic pesticides have some level of toxicity.

"Looking to manage gardens in the least toxic, most environmentally friendly way is in the best interests of everyone," she said.

Source: Nancy Pollard, Extension Educator, Horticulture, pollard@illinois.edu

Evergreen Dieback Problems

rwolford@illinois.edu(Ron Wolford) — 2011-07-06T16:02:00+05:00

Many evergreen trees are experiencing needle dieback this year. According to Rhonda Ferree, extension educator in horticulture, the cold, wet spring has brought out many tree diseases that are causing significant damage on evergreens throughout central Illinois.

In particular, spruce and pine trees show needle browning and dieback. Spruce trees have small needles arranged along the stem. Pine trees have needles in bundles of two, three, or five along the stem.

Spruce trees are experiencing three different diseases, each with slightly different symptoms and treatment. First is Rhizosphaera needle cast. Spruce trees with purple/brown one- and two-year-old needles are suspect. The newest growth will appear green. Affected needles are cast (dropped). Since evergreens do not re-foliate along the branches, the disease will cause bare areas scattered throughout the tree. Norway spruces are considered resistant to this needle cast while Colorado blue spruce is a common host.

The second disease we see regularly on spruce in Illinois is Cytospora canker. That disease causes entire branches to turn purple/brown. Cytospora affects all needles from the tip of the branch to the base. Often lower branches are affected first. The disease may progress up the tree slowly, killing branches over a number of years. The fungus is known as a stress pathogen, meaning it invades spruce trees growing in less than ideal sites or environmental conditions.

Third, the University of Illinois Plant Clinic recently confirmed a new spruce disease in Illinois called Sudden Needle Drop (SNEED). SNEED has been found on Norway, white and Colorado blue spruce trees. Symptoms of SNEED are yellowing and eventual browning of older needles. Typically, by the end of summer, all of the needles on affected branches fall off except the newest needles on the tips of the branches.

Pines are prone to several diseases as well, including diplodia blight, pine wilt, and Dothistroma blight. All three diseases will cause needles to turn brown. The pattern of symptoms will help with diagnosis in each case.

The main disease that Rhonda has seen this year is diplodia on Austrian Pine. Diplodia tip blight causes entire needles to turn brown, not just tips of needles as might occur with Dothistroma blight, scorch, salt injury, or transplant shock. Diplodia blight causes all of the needles at the tip of a branch to turn brown.

Several practices can help reduce the amount of damage caused by these diseases. When the foliage is dry, remove dead branches and dead stem tips. Because the fungus survives on cones, rake and remove fallen cones throughout the season. Stressed trees are typically more susceptible to infection, so follow proper watering and fertilization to keep trees healthy. Chemical options are available for some diseases, but sprays this late in the season are not beneficial.

For more information on these diseases and more, read the Home, Yard, and Garden Newsletter from University of Illinois Extension at http://hyg.ipm.illinois.edu/index.php. You can also find out more information on this or other horticultural issues by contacting your local Extension office at www.extension.illinois.edu. You can also post questions on Rhonda's facebook page at www.facebook.com/ferree.horticulture.

Source: Rhonda J. Ferree, Associate Regional Director, ferreer@illinois.edu