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This document printed from the University of Illinois Extension A Gardeners Place at http://www.extension.uiuc.edu/cook/
Starting Seeds Indoors
February 14, 2007

Matthew Kostelnick
Extension Unit Educator, Horticulture
Cook County Unit
Lake Center Corporate Park
1699 Wall Street, Suite 500
Mt. Prospect, IL 60056
Phone: 847-437-6449
FAX: 847-437-7583
mkosteln@uiuc.edu


Starting vegetable and flowers from seed indoors has many benefits for the gardener. A major benefit of starting seeds indoors is the wide range of plant varieties to grow.

Seed catalogs offer a huge assortment of different vegetables and flowers for the grower to choose from. Additionally, growing from seed (as opposed to buying transplants at a store) can save money.

Finally, starting seeds indoors allows gardeners to start gardening in late winter/early spring, thus extending their gardening season by a few months and having more gardening fun earlier in the year.

Starting seeds is not particularly difficult. Major factors to consider when starting seedlings indoors include: timing, sanitation, light, water, temperature, fertilizer, and acclimation to the outdoors.

Timing when seeds are sown indoors is very important because of frost free dates in Cook County. For example, you wouldn't want to start tomato seedlings too early and have to take them outdoors before the threat of frost has passed. You also wouldn't want to have to keep these overgrown tomato plants indoors, as they would get very leggy.

Seed packets are very helpful with timing your sow date. Read the back of the seed packet and look for the seed sowing and transplant time.

Seedlings need anywhere from four to fourteen weeks indoors before going outside, depending on the variety. For example, many melon crops take only four weeks, whereas flowers like begonias take up to fourteen weeks. Some vegetables, like tomatoes, melons, and peppers, need to go outside when the threat of frost has completely passed (they will not tolerate a late frost). Other cooler season crops such as cabbage, cauliflower and broccoli, and flowers such as pansies and violets, can tolerate mild frost.

In Cook County, May 20th is a conservative estimate of when the danger of frost is no longer a threat. It takes tomatoes seven weeks from seed sow to transplant. So for tomatoes, count back seven weeks from May 20th (transplant date). In this case, April 1st is the sow date. In summary, sow dates depend on two factors: length of grow time (sow date to transplant outdoors) and date to transplant outdoors (ability to handle frost).

Proper sanitation prevents disease problems with seedlings. This means using a sterile soil media and a clean container or flat.

Soil media should be purchased from a garden center and need to be specifically seed starter mixes. This is very important because regular potting soil is too course for seed starting. Never use outdoor soil when starting seeds indoors.

The container used is commonly a "flat" of some sort. Any container will work, but make sure there are drainage holes in it. When using a flat or any other container, wash it before filling with soil. Use one part bleach to ten parts water solution to wash the container out. Proper sanitation also involves removing any disease-infested plants to avoid spreading the problem.

Proper lighting conditions are crucial with seedlings. For germination, read the seed packet to see if the seeds need light or darkness for germination. Once seeds have germinated and start growing, it is important all seedlings receive light. Plants that don't receive adequate light will get long stems (leggy) or even die.

Light can come from a window or in combination with fluorescent light bulbs. Fluorescent light bulbs alone can be used. If using supplemental light be sure to place the bulbs close to the seedlings (within two to four inches above the seedlings). Remember fluorescent bulbs lose their intensity with extended use. After several years, it will probably be time for new bulbs.

Adequate water is obviously important for seedlings; however, too much water leads to problems as well. Before sowing seeds in the soil media, pre-water the soil to avoid having to water with seeds in it. Pre-water the soil thoroughly. Watering soil media with seeds can cause the seeds to scatter.

If the seedlings need additional water, moisten the soil with a mist bottle. Also plan on covering the seeds with clear plastic before seeds germinate to raise the humidity level. Remove the plastic after seeds have germinated.

A common question is how much water is too much, and this is a very important question with seedlings as they are especially prone to diseases and rotting problems if over-watered. An easy guideline is this: soil needs to be moist, but not wet.

If the soil feels dry to the touch, it is time to water. If soil still feels moist, more time is needed until the next watering. Keep a close eye on the moisture level, as it is one of the most important aspects of starting seeds indoors. You can never give seedlings too much attention when it comes to water.

Temperature is also key when growing seedlings. Seedlings often suffer from conditions that are too cold or hot. Ideal temperatures should be between sixty-five and seventy-five degrees during the day and about ten degrees cooler at night.

Air temperatures that are too warm will cause plants to get leggy; temperatures too cool will produce short, stalky plants. Avoid placing seedlings near cold or hot air drafts.

As plants grow bigger (when they get their first set of true leaves), they can be thinned out or transplanted into cell packs or pots to allow more growth. Scissors are an easy way to thin out seedlings to avoid disturbing remaining seedlings.

Acclimation to the outdoors is the final stage for growing seedlings indoors. As plants go from their "protective bubble" environment to the harsher elements outdoors, they need to be acclimated. No plant likes shock, especially young fragile plants.

The key is to give mild, gradual doses of the outdoors to allow the seedlings to adapt, yet not get shocked. Cold frames are commonly used in this process and work very well as a "half way house."

For gardeners who don't have a cold frame, the acclimation process isn't real tough. Introduce the plants outdoors on a day that isn't hot, cold, or windy. Take the plants out for three or four hours on the first day in a well protected location from sun and wind, like a porch, balcony, north side of a house, or under a tree. Gradually increase the time spent outdoors each day for about ten days or so.

After that time, plants should be hardened off to stay outside for the remainder of the growing season. Remember to introduce your plants outdoors for transplanting at the right time. For example, melon crops and tomatoes don't tolerate frost. Therefore, wait until the danger of frost has passed before permanently planting them outside.

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