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Tales from a Plant Addict

Fun (& a few serious) facts, tips and tricks for every gardener, new and old.

Chinese Hibiscus


There are several species of hibiscus that people typically grow in their landscapes, but some are native to tropical places and will not overwinter here unless brought indoors. Chinese hibiscus is one of these tropical types.

Historically, the tropical or Chinese hibiscus, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, is believed to really be from China. There is some debate though as to whether early on it was developed by crossing two or more species of hibiscus also native to Asia. The other common name for Chinese hibiscus is "shoe flower"–in parts of India, the flowers have been used to shine shoes!

Tropical regions of the world use Chinese hibiscus much like we use shrubs in our landscape. Chinese hibiscus can only overwinter in Zones higher than 9 or 10 depending on the cultivar. The Extension publication I found from the University of Florida discusses Chinese hibiscus primarily as a landscape plant, with brief mention of new plantings' vulnerability in the "cold" northern half of the state. Unfortunately for us in Illinois, we are limited to containers unless we want to treat our Chinese hibiscus as an annual planting.

However you plant your Chinese hibiscus, the flowers are why you want to grow this plant. Although individual flowers only last a day in most cultivars, a typical plant in summer will be covered with more buds ready to burst into bloom. Flowers are five-petaled and have a long stigma poking out from the center surrounded by several stamens. Some cultivars have blooms only two inches in diameter, while others are up to twelve inches wide. Most cultivars when grown in good conditions will have flowers about four or five inches wide.

Flower color seems to be almost limitless, some solid colors, some patterns of several colors. The only flower colors not found in Chinese hibiscus are true black and true blue. Some cultivars are double-flowered, which means there is a second layer of petals, giving a very full, ruffled look to the flower. In order for a plant to produce a double flower some of the stamens, or male parts of the flower are directed to become flower petals very early on in development. The more "fully double" a flower is, the more stamens are sacrificed. In an extreme case there are no stamens left and the flower is sterile, so it produces no pollen at all. This control of flower development is genetic. Chinese hibiscus need plenty of sun, but too much sun will likely produce smaller flowers and less of them. Sitting in the blazing sun all day in 90+ degree temperatures is too much for this plant. They do love direct sun, but need a break from it at some point in the day.

Not only is too much sun bad for the flowers, it's hard on the foliage too. This is especially true in Northern climates like ours where Chinese hibiscus spends the winter indoors. Unless you don't mind your plant frying to a crisp on its first day outdoors, you need to keep your plant in a shady spot and gradually expose it to more and more direct sun. It's a lot like people getting sunburned on the first nice weekend of the spring after spending the winter indoors.

Even if you do fry your plant to a crisp early on in the season, don't worry too much. In all likelihood the plant will drop the fried leaves and regrow new ones. This regrowth is part of how this plant has evolved to survive periodic dryness in tropical areas.

Yellowing and dropping leaves are symptoms of too much stress. Typical sources of this stress are overwatering, overfertilizing, and changes in light or temperature. As long as conditions are returned to favorable ones as soon as possible, the plant should recover. Dropping leaves is almost unavoidable when bringing plants in for winter. This drop is primarily due to less light available indoors.

As a general rule, Chinese hibiscus are very thirsty plants. They take a lot of water, but do not like to have wet feet. A good potting mix for containers will provide both the moisture and good drainage the plant needs. During the hottest part of the summer, its not unusual for me to water my hibiscus every day. The winter however, is another story.

It takes a little practice, but it is easy to tell when your plant needs water, summer or winter. The Chinese hibiscus' leaves are normally shiny. When the plant needs water, before the leaves actually begin to wilt, they will look dull.

Without pruning, Chinese hibiscus can get very large. Like a lot of shrubs we grow in our landscape, Chinese hibiscus flowers best on new growth. Older branches become thick and the center of the plant will become bare with age.

Some people have asked me about hibiscus "trees" that are very popular patio plants. These are nothing but patient pruning of a Chinese hibiscus that was allowed to grow as a single stem to a particular height, then pruned to encourage branching. The technical name for this way of growing is a "standard". Other plants that you might see grown this way are roses, or fuchsias. Sometimes multiple stems are braided together. By removing all of the side branches except for the ones near the top, you have a "tree". These take a lot longer and require more labor to produce than the typical "shrub-like" hibiscus, so the cost is considerably more.

Back in the Fall of 2012 I tried a different method of overwintering my two hibiscus standards. I left them in my unheated but frost-free garage, watered sparingly and allowed them to become semi-dormant. They lost most of their leaves and looked very pathetic, but when the weather warmed I put them on my patio and gave them a good pruning, lots of water and a dose of fertilizer. They bounced back with great vigor and looked great all summer. I am attempting the same overwintering regimen this year to see if last year's success was an accident!



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