Attracting Bats to the Garden

There has been interest among gardeners in recent years in attracting bats to the home garden for managing insects. Of course, the obvious method is to construct a bat house where they can roost and raise their young and thus concentrate their insect-feeding activity nearby. However, bats are particular about the design and location of their living space. A stable temperature of between 80F and 110F degrees is needed in bat nurseries, depending on the species. Therefore, the house needs to be as airtight as possible, so seal all external joints with silicone caulk to prevent heat loss. Also, orient the house to receive maximum sunlight, particularly in early morning; a southern exposure works well.

A few other tips: Western red cedar is the recommended construction material; do not treat the bat house with paint or varnish as bats are sensitive to chemicals; erect houses 10 to 15 feet off the ground and protect from north and west winds; houses placed within a quarter mile of a permanent water source are more attractive to bats than those without water nearby.

What is "hydrogel?"

Hydrogels are crystal-like polymer that absorb and hold water – they are mixed into soilless mixes for containers, for example. Individual particles will absorb between 60 and 400 times their dry eight in water, depending on the specific type. This absorbed water is then slowly made available to plant roots to prevent or delay water stress. This product is useful in small containers and hanging baskets that tend to dry out quickly.

Mulching a Newly Planted Tree

Apply no more than two inches of mulch around newly planted trees and shrubs and keep the mulch a few inches away from plant crowns. Do not pile mulch up in deep cone-shaped mounds around tree trunks, which can hold moisture around trunks and potentially lead to crown and stem rots. Extend mulch out one to two feet beyond the planting hole to allow for the season's root growth for trees and shrubs, which benefits establishment.

Surface Rots in the Yard

Many gardeners are faced with the problem of tree surface roots. These are difficult to mow or walk over and can lead to decline and death of nearby grass or groundcovers. Gardeners often attempt to remedy the situation by adding fill soil over the roots and then replanting grass or groundcover. However, this addition of soil reduces the concentration of soil oxygen needed by roots to survive and the tree will begin to show symptoms of decline over time; sometimes this occurs immediately and sometimes it occurs over a period of years. Visible symptoms of injury may include small, off color leaves, premature fall color, suckering along the main trunk, and dead twigs throughout the canopy of the tree or even death of large branches.

Injury will vary by tree species, age, health of the tree, depth and type of fill and drainage. Trees that are usually severely injured by additional fill include sugar maple, beech, dogwood, many oaks, pines and spruces. Birch and hemlock seem less affected and elms, willow, London plane tree, pin oak and locust seem least affected. Older trees and those in a weakened state are more likely to be injured than younger, more vigorous trees.

A better way to deal with surface roots is to cut a bed around the offending root system and cover with coarse mulch. Trying to establish grass or groundcover in among surface roots is often difficult, if not impossible to do.

Mole Problems

Moles and their damage are most noticeable after rains, when the soil is soft and suitable for tunneling. In the spring and summer, damage consists of raised tunnels that wind through the lawn and adjacent flowerbeds. Moles are insectivores, feeding on live earthworms, grubs, beetles, ants and other insect larvae.

Trapping is the most successful method of getting rid of moles – but patience and persistence is also needed! The best time to trap is early spring when tunnels are first noticed or after the first fall rains. Traps work well because they capitalize on the mole's natural instinct to clear an obstructed tunnel. A harpoon trap is perhaps the easiest to use; follow directions that come with the trap. If after two days no mole is caught, reset it over another active tunnel.

Although other remedies, such as bleach, petroleum products, lye, sonic devices, broken bottles, chewing gum and the "mole plant" (Euphorbia lathris) claim to keep moles out of lawns and flowerbeds, no known research supports these claims.

Protect Honeybees in the Garden

You can do a few things to protect honey bees in your own garden. One is to use integrated pest management methods, so that the use of insecticides is limited. Insecticides that are considered "highly toxic" to bees include diazinon, lindane, malathion, Orthene and Sevin. Relatively non-toxic insecticides include Bacillus thuringiensis (DiPel), pyrethrum, rotenone, insecticidal soap and horticultural oil. Also consider the formulation; wettable powder and dust formulations are more toxic to bees than are emulsifiable concentrates (liquids).

If you must use an insecticide to treat a pest, do so when bees are least active, which is usually in early morning or late evening. Rely on "soft" insecticides such as soaps and oils for aphids, whiteflies and other soft-bodied insects. If possible, don't spray any flowering plants that are attractive to bees.

Brown Spots on Leaves

Cool, wet spring weather contributes to the development fungal diseases. Ash anthracnose is a fungal disease that primarily attacks white ash, but sometimes-green ash. Infection occurs just after bud break' with symptoms becoming evident several weeks later. Large, irregular brown areas develop in the young leaflets, following the veins and extending to the leaflet margin. Leaflets may also be deformed and leaf drop from trees can be severe. Though leaf drop may be considerable, especially from the lower parts of the canopy, overall tree health is usually not severely affected and trees usually refoliate.

Fungicide control is rarely warranted because anthracnose usually does not seriously damage tree health and adequate control is seldom achieved. Instead, practice good tree care to promote vigorous growth, which aids general tolerance to the effects of this disease and rapid refoliation in seasons when this disease is severe.

June
Edible

Stop harvesting rhubarb and asparagus to allow foliage to develop and store food reserves for next year's harvest.

When crops like squash and cucumbers are planted in a circle or hill, place a stick upright in the middle of the circle and leave it there. Later on you'll know where to water the main roots hidden under the vines.

Do not be alarmed at June drop of tree fruits. This is a natural thinning process. Thin fruit to 6-8 inches apart on a branch.

Crawling ants on your vegetables may be a sign of aphids. Some ants protect aphids, moving them from plant to plant or even taking them underground into the anthill for overnight safety. The ants do this to ensure a supply of honeydew, a sugary substance that aphids secrete and ants feed on.

June
Ornamental

Prune shoot tips of chrysanthemums and coleus to promote bushier growth.

Remove leaves of spring flowering bulbs only after they have yellowed and withered.

Apply a light side dressing of a 5-10-5 fertilizer every two weeks to caladiums. This will insure continuous production of new brightly colored foliage.

Plant gourds as a summer gardening project for kids. When the gourd is half grown scratch a child's name into the skin. The gourd forms a scab over the scratches and as the gourd grows the name grows bigger and bigger.

Trap earwigs in the garden by using rolled up newspapers moistened with water. The insects will hide in the newspaper during the day.

June
Indoor

According to studies conducted by NASA, plants can function as air purification systems. Spider plants are highly efficient in absorbing toxic substances. To purify the air in an average size, well-insulated home, 8 to 15 mature spider plants would be required. Other plants that also lower pollution levels, but to a lesser degree, were Chinese evergreens, golden pothos and peace lily.

Houseplants in clay pots can be set directly in the ground when placing them outdoors for the summer. Set the pots in the ground so the soil is 1-2 inches below the pot rim, allowing moisture to go through the porous clay. If your houseplants are in plastic or glazed containers, repot them into clay containers or check frequently because moisture will not move through the plastic.

July
Edible

Harvest edible flowers in the morning after the dew has dried or just before sundown. Too much moisture can cause discoloration and loss of flavor. Leave stems in tact when picking and storing; remove them just before serving. Store loosely packed flowers in an airtight container with a moist paper towel folded in the bottom. Eat flowers on the same day as picked.

Sow seeds for late crops of bush beans, beets, carrots, Chinese cabbage, cucumbers and corn.

Watch leaves of tomato plants for septoria leaf spot and early blight. Septoria leaf spot develops on lower leaves as small, circular spots with gray centers. Early blight appears as small, brown concentric target spots on older leaves. Both of these diseases start with the lower leaves and work their way up the plant. Remove leaves with leaf spot or blight as soon as disease symptoms are seen.

Select herbs for drying. Those that are close to bloom are at their highest quality. Wash the plants with a garden hose the day before you plan to harvest them. Factsheet available

Ornamental

Water your plants a few hours before applying a pesticide. Plants that are drought-stressed have less water in their tissues making them more susceptible to leaf burn after spraying.

Dry flowers now for arrangements. Early season blooms are better for drying than those in late summer. Cut the flowers during mid-day in the late bud or early bloom stage. Factsheet available.

Stop pinching back mums around July 4th. This will allow them to develop flower buds for the fall.

Use a piece of corrugated cardboard as a barrier when spraying a non-selective herbicide close to desired plants. Make sure the same side of the cardboard always faces the sprayer when moved from one spot to another.

Did you know that during dry spells a tree might shed up to 10% of its leaves? The leaf loss reduces water loss through transpiration and causes little or no harm to the tree.

Common Problems For Vegetable Crops
Learn about insect and disease problems of vegetables.
http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/vegproblems

Garden Questions Answered
Find answers to your gardening questions on a wide range of questions.
http://hcs.osu.edu/faq

. . . capers are unopened flower buds? They are the buds of the Mediterranean caper bush. Just before they burst into bloom, capers are harvested and fermented in open-air barrels of salt brine. Lactic acid is formed during the brief fermentation, drawing out their natural bitterness. Capers are then washed, re-brined, fermented, cleaned, sorted and packaged. The olive-shaped fruit that forms from the flower is also picked and preserved in brine with their stems attached. They are a staple in Mediterranean cooking and these tiny buds add a kick of fresh flavor to many traditional dishes. Capers can be purchased pickled in brine or preserved in coarse salt. Fine Cooking Magazine, April/May 1997

. . . yellow, orange, and red-orange vegetables retain their color during cooking longer than green and red ones. Carotenoids are responsible for this range of color. Yellow, orange and red-orange pigments in vegetables dissolve in oil, not water, and are relatively stable, according to Shirley O. Corriher's CookWise; the Hows and Whys of Successful Cooking. Until they become extremely overcooked, these vegetables will not lose their color. Yellow summer squash are a perfect example. Cooking yellow summer squash for more than 10 minutes produces pale and washed-out looking pieces because by this time is well overcooked. Because carrots are so high in carotenoids, they retain their orange color even during excessive overcooking as in stocks and stews.

. . . you can remove burned on food from pots and pan with baking soda. Save that pot! The next time you burn something and it leaves a black spot on the bottom of pan consider this solution. Fill the wounded pot half full with cold water and add in 2-3 tablespoons baking soda. Stir to dissolve and turn the heat on. Simmer over medium-high heat for 30 minutes. Pour off the water and soda. Now the burned on food can be easily washed away. If the utensil is very badly burned, you may need to repeat this process more than once.

The Chicago Farmers Market 2003

Yes, folks it is that time of year again. When fresh fruits and vegetable are bountiful at your neighborhood Chicago Farmers Market. Come to the market and meet the people who actually grow the food you are buying. This year there are 30 Farmers Markets that take place throughout the city. Downtown Markets will feature live entertainment, educational activities and much, much more. Downtown Markets are from 7:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m. at these locations:

• Federal Plaza at Adams and Dearborn (230 South to 50 West) on Federal Plaza on Tuesdays from May 13 to October 14.
  
• Daley Plaza at Washington and Dearborn (100 North to 50 West) on the Daley Plaza on Thursdays on July 3, 10, & 24, Aug. 7 & 21, and Sept. 4 & 18.
  
  
• Prudential Plaza at Lake & Beaubien Court (200 North to 150 East) On the Prudential Building Plaza on Thursdays on July 17 & 31, Aug. 14 & 28, Sept. 11 & 25, and Oct.9 & 23
  
• The Park at Jackson and Wacker (311 South to 350 West) on Thursdays from May 22 to Oct. 16.

For information on weekly markets in Chicago neighborhoods visit the website at www.ci.chi.il.us/ SpecialEvents/ FarmersMarket Calendar. html or call the Mayors Office of Special Events Hotline at (312) 744-3370.

On the Grill

Charcoal Grilled Tomato, Basil & Cheese Sandwiches

Open-faced sandwiches are simply made with one slice of bread instead of two. Pick it up with your hands, cut into bite-sized wedges, or use a knife and fork. Serve as an appetizer, main-course with a salad on the side or as a snack. The key to greatness is sweet juicy, vine-ripened tomatoes.

2 teaspoons salted butter, at room temperature

2 teaspoons extra virgin olive oil

8 slices (1/4-inch thick) Italian bread

8 ounces mozzarella cheese, grated

8 large fresh basil leaves, sliced into ribbons

1 to 2 medium vine-ripened plum tomatoes,

cut 1/8 – inch thick slices

Salt and fresh ground black pepper to taste

1. Heat charcoal grill with lid to medium-high.
2. Meanwhile, combine butter and olive oil. Set aside. Cut bread. Lightly brush bread with oil/butter mixture on one side only. Place buttered side down on a cutting board.
3. Top bread with a thin layer of grated cheese. Add tomato slices, then the basil, sprinkle with a salt and pepper. Top with more cheese. Place open-faced sandwiches on grill and close top or cover with a large lid to trap smoke and melt cheese. Grill until lightly brown and cheese has melted. Serve immediately while very hot. Serves four.

Periodical cicada is set to emerge in the Chicago area and should do so by early June. Periodical cicadas feed for years as nymphs on the sap of roots of trees and shrubs. From central Illinois south they emerge above ground on the thirteenth year, molt into adults and reproduce. From central Illinois north, they emerge on the seventeenth year. This year's is an unusual emergence that started in 1969 when part of the northern Illinois brood emerged after thirteen years in northeastern Illinois instead of seventeen years. Since then, this group of cicadas has emerged every seventeen years so there was an emergence in 1986 and will be again this year. In 2007, northeastern Illinois will experience the rest of the emergence of this brood along with most of the rest of the northern third of Illinois.

We expect the periodical cicadas to emerge through much of the Cook County suburbs, the eastern half of DuPage county, southeastern Lake county and northeaster Will county. The expected emergence is a curved band running from Deerfield on the northeast, arcing to Addison and Lisle on the west and arcing to Crete on the southeast. The inside of the band arcs across northwestern, western and southwestern Chicago.

Full-grown nymphs are brown, humpbacked and about three-quarters inch long. They commonly construct soil chimneys that extend from the ground up to three inches high and are about one-half inch in diameter. These chimneys have been reported in the last part of May this year in the expected emergence area. Chimneys are not always constructed. Within a few days, the nymphs break through the top of the chimneys or soil surface to crawl up trees, shrubs and other upright objects where they molt into adults. Adult periodical cicadas are about one and one-quarter inch long black insects with red eyes and orange-veined, clear wings.

Males produce a high-pitched wavering song that sounds like a trill when many are singing together. They sing primarily during the sunny part of the day to attract females to them for mating. The males and the singing die after a couple of weeks, while females remain alive for two to four weeks longer to lay eggs. Eggs are inserted into tree and shrub stems that are up to two inches in diameter. Heavy egg laying will cause twigs to break, resulting in dead leaves at the end of branches. Small trees may have enough eggs laid into the trunk that it breaks off.

Control is directed at preventing egg-laying damage, as adult feeding is insignificant. Although pyrethroids and carbaryl (Sevin) will kill large numbers of adults, treated plants commonly experience about as much injury as untreated plants in landscapes and small planting areas. In nurseries and other large planting areas, repeated applications could reduce the damage significantly. Individual trees can be protected with nylon netting or wire screening tied around the trunk and larger branches. Make sure that the netting or screening stands out from the trunk so that the cicadas cannot reach the stem with their ovipositors. Although damage to small branches is obvious, its long-term effect will be to make the plant bushier and is not usually worth control efforts.

Eggs hatch within a few weeks into small nymphs that drop to the ground and tunnel down to find a root to feed on. Over the years, nymphs will commonly move to different roots, but do not migrate very far. The nymphs have little effect on tree health, although studies have shown reduced diameter growth in trees during the last two to three years before adult emergence. Because larger insects eat more than smaller ones, older, larger nymphs apparently eat enough sap to reduce growth.

I would like to know where these cicadas are found. Call 773-233-0476 or e-mail me at rwolford@uiuc.edu

Source: Philip Nixon, Entomology, University of Illinois

Humans love chocolates. In fact, some people love it so much they have it in their landscapes – as mulch, that is. Over the past few years, the use of cocoa bean mulches has become more popular. They not only prevent weeds, they also look attractive and smell wonderful. However, dogs are also attracted to this sweet, chocolaty smell and that can be dangerous for your pooch.

Research has shown that this mulch may be ingested as dogs dig through it. Of course, this may not be an issue if your dog is well behaved and understands that gardens are to be appreciated from a distance. My dog, however, loves to be directly involved with any gardening activity. She also loves to dig and will put just about anything in her mouth. My guess is that she is more the rule than the exception. So what happens when dogs ingest cocoa mulch?

Chocolate contains two compounds that are toxic to dogs. They are methylxanthines, specifically theobromine and caffeine and each has an LD50 of 100 to 100 mg/kg. The LD50 is the quantity of a chemical calculated to be lethal to 50 percent of the organisms in a specific test situation. It is expressed in weight of the chemical (milligrams) per unit of body weight (kilograms). However, severe and life-threatening clinical signs may be seen well below this dose. Seizures can occur at 60 mg/kg and mild signs such as vomiting, diarrhea, bloating and restlessness can occur at only 20 mg/kg (ASPCA/APCC Database: Unpublished data).

So how much is too much for a pooch? The amount of methylxanthines in cocoa hulls is substantial at 255 mg/oz. And that's just the theobromine; no data was available for caffeine. In comparison, milk chocolate has only 64 mg/oz of methylxanthines and less than 1 oz of milk chocolate/lb (2oz/kg) is potentially lethal to dogs. So 65 oz (4 lb) of milk chocolate would be potentially lethal for my 65 lb. dog. But, if she were to eat cocoa hull mulch, by my calculations, it would only take about 2.25 oz to produce mild signs and 12 oz to be potentially lethal. Of course, these amounts would be much less for a smaller dog. Some manufacturers do include a warning statement on the bag. So, if you have dogs or wandering neighborhood dogs, another type of mulch should be considered.

For more information, call your local veterinarian or animal poison control center. You can reach a link to the center by clicking on http://www.aspca.org. Also at this site is an article on chocolate intoxication (http://www.aspca.org/apcc/toxbrief_0201.pdf) that gives detailed information on clinical signs and treatment, as well as an example for calculating the methylxanthine dosage. At the above Web address, you'll also find information on protecting your pet from pesticides and fertilizers, as well as a list of plants that are toxic to pets.

Source: Michelle Wiesbrook and Sharon Gwaltney-Brant, University of Illinois

As this season progresses, we will be confronted with many plant disease problems. Some will be harmless, some a nuisance and some quite devastating. If we could choose a preferred method of disease control, it would be resistance. Of course, that is not always possible.

Disease resistance is the capacity of a plant to lessen the harmful effects of a pathogen. We see fewer disease symptoms on plants with some level of resistance. Resistance is an inherited trait. It seems most useful in preventing diseases such as rust, powdery mildew, vascular wilts and scab; but there are available varieties resistant against many other diseases.

If a pathogen is able to cause only a small amount of disease on a plant, that plant is resistant. If the pathogen causes a large amount of disease, the host is susceptible. Resistance is a continuum from mild disease to severe disease, with all levels in between.

In terms of disease-control options, resistance is preferred over other methods because it

• Reduces expense (no labor or chemical costs).
• Eliminates inconvenience of other disease control activities, such as pruning.
• Eliminates side effects, such as impact of chemicals on the environment.
• May be the only disease control option, as may be the case with Verticillium wilt or crown gall diseases.

Disease resistance may be rated in many ways. There is no uniform rating scale. The usual scales are numerical or ordinal. Many companies that rate their plants for resistance level use a 1 to 9 scale, with 1 indicating most susceptible and 9 most resistant. Beware, however, that other companies use a 9 to 1 scale or other variation. Ordinal scales include ratings using words such as high, medium or low disease resistance. Word scales are easy to understand but are not always as precise as numerical ratings. HR for highly resistant, R for resistant, MR for moderately resistant, MS for moderately susceptible and S for susceptible are commonly used. When using resistant plant material, look for the rating provided by the seller, but also look for an explanation of the scale.

Where do we find disease-resistance information? There is no one central location. It can be found in a variety of places, some highly visible and some difficult to find. Web searches have made this information more available. Some sources to try include university publications; botanic garden trials; breeding and selection programs, such as the U. S. National Arboretum, land grant universities and the private sector, plant societies, such as the hosta society.

There are also textbooks and other publications that list resistance information. Some of this information will last for many years; and some will be short-lived, as new pathogen races develop. An excellent book that discusses available disease-resistant cultivars is Diseases of Woody Ornamentals & Trees in Nurseries, by APS Press, St. Paul, MN. Some journals and newsletters that discuss current resistance information include California Agriculture, Greenhouse Grower, Mycologist, Plant Disease and the Ohio Florist Association Bulletin. Always be open to these and other sources of information. The U of I. Report on Plant Disease series provides a starting point.

Who sells resistant plant material? Identifying the resistant plants is useless if the plants are not available. Often it is best to start with operators of local garden centers that know the disease problems in an area and try to find sources of resistance in locally adapted plants. A program called Chicagoland Grows, Inc., evaluates plants that do well in northern Illinois and provides a list of retail businesses that sell them. The Center for Development of Hardy Landscape Plants provides similar information in Minnesota. Undoubtedly, there are other such sources.

Try to find disease-resistant varieties in the plants you purchase this spring, especially for areas where you had problems in the past. As an example, there are many varieties of phlox with powdery mildew resistance. Some tomatoes have resistance to Verticillium and Fusarium infection. Most new crabapples are resistant to scab. There are hundreds of other examples, so look into disease resistance now, before you purchase or plant.

Source: Nancy Pataky, University of Illinois

Ticks are more numerous this year than usual. Probably, the frequent spring rains in much of the state have provided the high moisture and subsequent humidity that ticks need. Ticks are large, flattened mites that feed as parasites on mammals, birds and reptiles. They hatch from eggs into six-legged larvae that locate hosts and feed before dropping off the host and molting into eight-legged nymphs. Nymphs locate hosts, feed and drop off to molt into eight-legged adults. Adults also locate hosts on which to feed. Males may stay on the host, mating with females coming there to feed. Females engorge on blood to several times their original size, drop off the host and lay hundreds of eggs. With each tick having to find three hosts in its lifetime, many ticks starve before reproducing, although ticks can survive for long periods without food.

American dog ticks, commonly known as wood ticks, are the most common in Illinois. They feed as larvae and nymphs on small mammals, only attacking humans when adult. Adults are reddish brown, 3/16 inch long. Females have a silver shield behind the head; males have silver, wiggly lines down the back. These ticks transmit Rocky Mountain spotted fever, a virus found here but most common in North Carolina and nearby areas. In Illinois, they also carry ehrlichiosis, producing symptoms similar to Lyme disease.

Lone star ticks feed on humans and other mammals as larvae, nymphs and adults. Larvae and nymphs are commonly called seed ticks because of their size. Walking through an area of newly hatched larvae may result in hundreds attacking your legs. Adults are about 1/8 inch in diameter, roundish and brown; females have a white spot in the middle of the back.

Blacklegged ticks, including the deer tick subspecies, also feed on people as larvae, nymphs and adults. Larvae are tiny, about the size of the period at the end of a sentence; nymphs are pinhead sized. Both tend to migrate up the legs and feed in the groin area. Adult blacklegged ticks are teardrop-shaped, reddish brown and about 1/8 inch long. The deer tick subspecies is found mainly in the northern half of the United States. Deer tick larvae feed on white-footed mice, picking up the Lyme disease, which can be transmitted to people by the nymphial and adult ticks. In the southern United States, the blacklegged subspecies feed mainly on lizards and birds as immatures and thus do not carry Lyme disease.

Ticks are numerous in areas of tall grass, where humidity is high and hosts common. Mowing greatly reduces tick numbers. When walking or working in areas of tall grass or other areas with ticks, apply a repellent containing about 30% DEET, such as Off or Cutters, to the lower legs and pants legs. If ticks are numerous in mowed areas, spraying carbaryl, sold as Sevin, gives season long control.

If a tick is attached, grasp the head with tweezers where the mouthparts enter the skin, pulling slowly and consistently. The tick will release its mouthparts and come loose. Do not handle the tick. Other methods such as heat and nail polish commonly kill the tick, resulting in locked mouthparts that remain in the wound to cause infection. A tick typically feeds for 24 hours before releasing disease organisms; remove ticks promptly when you find them.

Source: Dr. Philip Nixon, Entomology, University of Illinois

During most summer seasons, fungal diseases occur on tomatoes. Early blight can cause leaf spots, fruit rot and stem lesions; under favorable conditions, it can completely defoliate plants. Small, irregular, dark brown to black spots appear on older leaflets, ranging in size from a pinpoint up to a half-inch in diameter. Concentric rings form as the spots enlarge, yellow ring often forms around each spot and the leaf veins usually border the lesions. If numerous, the spots coalesce, causing the entire leaflet to turn yellow and die. On the stem, infection results in small, dark, slightly sunken areas that enlarge to form circular spots with lighter-colored centers. Concentric markings often develop on the stems, too.

Septoria leaf spot is also prevalent and can cause rapid defoliation when the weather is warm and wet. Symptoms are usually noticed after plants have begun to set fruit in mid-July. Small (1/8" diameter), roughly circular spots, with tan centers and ark margins, are scattered over the leaf. Older leaves near the soil are infected first, but symptoms quickly appear on younger leaves in rainy weather, as water splashes the disease spores around. Leaves will drop prematurely if heavily infected, subjecting the tomato fruits to sun scald.

Rotate tomato plants to allow time for the infested plant debris to decompose in the soil; a four year rotation is suggested. If possible, deeply bury plant refuse. Try to select tomato cultivars with lower susceptibility to these diseases. Also, control weeds in the garden area, especially Jimson weed, horse nettle and nightshade, which also serve as hosts for Septoria. Maintain fertility at optimum levels; deficiencies of nitrogen and phosphorus can increase susceptibility to early blight. Irrigate plants at soil level rather than by overhead irrigation to keep foliage dry.

Source: University of Minnesota

Using today's multifaceted health care system can be awfully confusing. So let's start at the beginning. For starters, everyone should have a good, reliable doctor or a primary care physician for everyday medical problems and routine examinations. Using a specialist (such as a gynecologist), or going to an emergency room for general medical care, can be a big mistake. Neither specialist nor ERs will have access to your full medical history and a visit to either will be extremely costly.

As an adult, your primary care physician may be a general practitioner, a family practitioner, or an internist. But what if you need a specialist? Before you make the decision to see a specialist, have a discussion with your primary care physician. Justification of specialists will depend on the nature of your problem. And insurance companies will not cover routine problems handled by specialists since they charge more.

Below is a list of some of the most common medical specialists and information about what they do (in plain English).

Cardiologist–Specializes in diagnosing and treating abnormalities of the heart and blood vessels.

Dermatologist–Diagnoses and treats disorders of the skin, hair, and nails (toe and fingernails).Gastroenterologist–This doctor diagnoses and treats disorders of the digestive system and liver.

Geneticists–Specializes in diagnosing and predicting inherited disorders, such as some forms of mental retardation, cystic fibrosis, hemophilia, and many metabolic disorders.

Hematologist–Diagnoses and treats disorders of the blood.

Internist–Specializes in the non-surgical treatment of adults. Some internists obtain sub-specialities, such as cardiology, gastroenterology, hematology, and oncology.

Neurologist–Diagnoses and treats disorders of the brain and nervous system as well as muscular disorders.

Neurosurgeon–Specializes in operating on disorders of the brain and blood vessels that supply the brain, spinal cord, and the peripheral nerves.

Obstetrician/gynecologist–A doctor who specializes in the treatment of the reproductive systems of women. A gynecologist can treat diseases of the reproductive organs with or without surgery. An obstetrician specializes in the treatment of pregnant women and delivering babies.

Oncologist–Diagnoses and recommends treatment for cancer.

Otorhinolaryngologist–Specializes in the ear, nose, and throat.

Pediatrician–Specializes in treating children and adolescents. Like internists, pediatricians may choose to develop sub-specialties, such as pediatric cardiology.

Physiatrist–Specializes in physical medicine and rehabilitation.

Urologist–Diagnosis and treats disorders of the urinary-tract organs, and in men, problems of the reproductive system.

Source: The Wellness Encyclopedia, University of California, Berkeley 1991

West Nile Virus was first diagnosed in the West Nile region of Uganda in 1937. In August 1999, the first outbreak in North America occurred in New York City. During that outbreak 76 people in nine northeastern states were infected and eight died. Most of the people infected and all of the people who died were over 50 years old.

In 2002 in Illinois, 877 people came down with WNV. Sixty-two of them died. West Nile Virus also infects birds, dogs, cats and even horses. These animals can die too.

The common House Mosquito (Culex pipiens) is the guilty party. Mosquitoes become infected after feeding on the blood of a bird that is carrying the virus. How does the bird get it? Unknown! Infected mosquitoes may then transmit WNV to humans and other animals. Infection occurs most often in late summer or early fall, but in southern states, WNV can be spread year round.

Mosquitoes fly around mainly at dusk and at dawn. They can be especially heavy along Lake Michigan and other waterways. Being outside during the daylight hours should be relatively bite-free, but there are no guarantees.

Mosquitoes grow from egg to larvae to adult in less than a week. The eggs must hatch and the larva must grow in standing water. The female house mosquito won't lay her eggs in places that are dry.

Below are some precautions you can take to help "Fight the Bite" and control the spread of the West Nile Virus.

• Make sure water doesn't stand for a long time in containers around your home. Check these areas every few days and again after a rain.
• Clean birdbaths once a week and add fresh water. Make sure water doesn't sit under flower or vegetable planters.
• Have gutters inspected; make sure they drain completely after a rain.
• All windows should have screens. All screens should be tight fitting. Screen repair kits can be purchased at hardware stores.
• If you spend time outside in the late afternoon and evening, wear light colored clothes. Mosquitoes seem to be attracted to people in dark clothes.
• Wear long-sleeved shirts and long pants to help prevent mosquitoes from biting. This may be hot, but it adds some protection.
• Apply mosquito repellent to your clothes, exposed arms, legs, hands, and neck. Repellents wear off, so you may need to apply more than once.
• Keep the grass mowed and weeds cut down around your home or apartment. Adult mosquitoes like tall grass and weeds.
• For more information on West Nile Virus, visit http://www. urbanext. uiuc.edu/ westnile/ or call your local University of Illinois Extension Office. Chicago callers (773) 233-0476, Lake County (847) 223-8627, DuPage County (630) 653-4114, Suburban Cook (708) 720-7520, for other Extension locations check your local phone directory.

Prepared by David Robson, Extension Educator, Horticulture, Springfield Center; Rhonda Ferree, Unit Leader, Fulton County; and Dr. Phil Nixon, Extension Entomologist.

The City of Chicago Department of Public Health (CDPH) has added an exciting new feature to their website. After several months of delay, the CDPH has placed restaurant inspection results on its web site. The department announced plans back in November of last year to post the restaurant inspection results online by the end of 2002. Red tape and administrative delays slowed the electronic postings until recently. The information is now available at www.cityofchicago.org/health.

The CDPH Food and Dairy Division manages this site under the "Food Protection Division – Food Inspection Reporting System." The search engine allows you to locate information by restaurant name, address, and zip code. It will also establish identify of restaurants by a name they may be "Doing Business As", and any alias under "Also Known As". The name by which you know a business may be under any of these headings, so they have all been listed for your convenience.

Information on the last inspection date, inspection results, and license status has been posted. There is also a note, which explains that the eatery license status refers only to the Department of Public Health activity. An establishment may be in good standing with the Health Department, but may still have its license suspended by another City department, such as the Fire Department.

If a restaurant passed inspection with extenuating conditions, this information is also noted. You may want to call your favorite restaurant and let them know you have accessed this information online. It should help to keep them "on their toes" concerning food safety and sanitation.

This is a wonderful web site, but it would be even better if expanded to include more information about inspections and temporary restaurant shutdowns. Be sure and leave your comments on this latest effort by the city to make food eaten away from safer.