Mosquito Protection

Continue to protect yourself against mosquitoes as we progress into the fall. The northern house mosquito, Culex pipiens, is considered to be the main vector of West Nile virus and it is present well into the fall months. Many feel that once there has been a freeze there will be no more mosquitoes. However, bodies of water do not conduct heat nearly as easily as air, so water containing mosquito larvae does not freeze readily as the air temperature drops to freezing. Biting mosquitoes are common during the warmup or "Indian summer" that follows the first freezes of the fall. More than 20 species of mosquitoes in Illinois carry West Nile virus, including the eastern tree-hole mosquito, Aedes triseriatus. This mosquito overwinters as an adult and emerges to bite people anytime during the winter when there are warm temperatures. Wear insect repellent to protect you when working outdoors under warmer temperatures, particularly in the early morning and evening.

Two-Faced Hydrangea Flowers

Gardeners sometimes wonder if something has damaged their hydrangeas, but it is perfectly normal for them to have two strikingly different kinds of flowers occurring in the same cluster. The larger, showy flowers towards the outside of the cluster are sterile flowers, meaning they are not capable of producing seed. The smaller, less noticeable flowers in the center of the cluster are fertile flowers.

Taking Cuttings for the Winter

Late summer is the perfect time to take cuttings from annuals and herbs. Impatiens, coleus, geraniums, wax begonias and such unusual annuals as licorice plant and polka dot plant are easily propagated by cuttings. Plants grown from cuttings of rosemary, thyme and oregano can provide a midwinter harvest of fresh herbs.

Hydrangea Popular, But Challenging

Try to have a discussion about hydrangea among your gardening friends and you're likely to start a rather lively debate. What type to grow, when to prune, why doesn't it flower and how can I change the flower color from pink to blue are among the most frequently asked hydrangea questions.

Saving Seeds from the Garden

Collecting seeds from garden plants to plant next year may seem like a good way to save money, but you may be in for a surprise. Some seeds can be saved from year to year with good results, particularly the old-fashioned cultivars. But modern hybrid cultivars rarely breed true from collected seed.

To get that disease-resistant tomato or that frilly double petunia, two or more plants that have desirable characteristics were crossbred. The seed from these hybrid plants will produce variable results due to recombination of different genes. Thus, the resulting plants may not be as productive, attractive, disease-resistant or flavorful. Each seedling could be quite different from the parent and from each other.

As long as you're prepared to accept this variability, it can be fun to experiment. You never know when you might actually stumble across an improvement!

Some gardeners are tempted to propagate fruit trees from seed – either from fruits grown in the backyard or from purchased fruit. If you're interested in serious fruit production, resist the temptation. Most fruit trees are grafted by splicing a piece of the desired fruiting cultivar onto a seedling rootstock. It is usually the rootstock that makes the plant disease-resistant, hardy, vigorous and perhaps dwarf. Plants grown from seeds of grafted plants may not only produce inferior fruit, but also huge, unmanageable trees for the home landscape that can take 10 years or more to be mature enough to fruit.

In recent years, there has been renewed interest in old-fashioned varieties, including those that are "open-pollinated." Because these plants have a non-controlled, more diverse genetic makeup, they tend to breed true to type. Although many of the advantages of hybridization, such as disease resistance, heat or cold tolerance and uniformity, are lost, some gardeners find open-pollinated types to be better flavored in the case of vegetables or perhaps more fragrant in the case of flowers.

Many seed companies specialize in open-pollinated garden vegetables and flowers and many of the larger seed companies carry both hybrid and open-pollinated seed. For those interested in learning more about open-pollinated seeds and preserving old-fashioned varieties, there is a well-established organization known as Seed Savers Exchange that includes seed trading programs as well as excellent publications. For those interested in collecting seed from their own garden, refer to the publication "Seed to Seed: Seed Saving Techniques for the Vegetable Gardener" available from Seed Savers Exchange, 3076 N. Winn Road, Decorah, IA 52101, http://www.seedsavers.org.

September

Edible

Have your soil tested. Fall is a great time to have this done. Soil labs are not as busy in the fall as they are in the spring. Booklet available.

Store extra seeds in a sealable jar with a layer of silica gel or powdered milk on the bottom.

Top your tomatoes for one final pruning in mid-September. This pruning sends carbohydrates into the existing fruit rather than into new growth. This gives the tomatoes that are set time to mature.

Ornamental

Watch for evergreen especially arborvitae and white pine to drop needles. This is normal.

Apply broadleaf weed killers to lawn. Follow all label directions and spray on a calm day. Factsheet available.

Dig up coleus, wax begonias and impatiens for indoor growing. Check for insects. Spraying with a hose will remove many bugs. Cut the plants halfway back before potting. Annuals such as impatiens, geraniums and wax begonias plus herbs, such as oregano, rosemary and thyme can also be propagated from cuttings. Follow these steps:

• Cut off a 4-6" stem. Remove the lower one-third of leaves.
• Dip the end of the stem in a rooting hormone. Most garden centers have this product.
• Stick the cuttings in a damp soilless mix in a 4" pot.
• Place a plastic bag over the pot. Keep the plastic off the cuttings with straws or wooden stakes. Roots will form in 2-6 weeks.

Divide spring and early summer blooming perennials. A dead plant center, fewer and fewer flowers, growth that looks crowded are indications a perennial should be divided. Dig up the clump and cut off divisions with a spade. Plant and water throughout the fall.

Core aerate your lawn. Rent a core aerator to do it or hire someone. Use a core aerator that takes up the tubular plugs of soil not one that just pokes holes in the soil. Those cute shoes with spikes you often see advertised, do not work. Run the aerator in several directions across the lawn. The holes should be a few inches apart. Leave the plugs on the soil. They will eventually break down. Fertilize and water right after you aerate. Fertilizer will go into the holes and move to the lawn's root zone where it is needed.

Save your geraniums. They can be saved over the winter by placing them in paper bags, potting them up or taking cuttings. For a factsheet call 773-233-0476.

Plant trees and shrubs in the fall. Balled and burlapped and container grown trees are best. Plant early in the fall so the roots can become established. Roots will grow until temperatures fall below 40 degrees.

October

Edible

Clean up flower and vegetable beds. Remove dead plants. If left in the garden, these plants can serve as overwintering homes for insects. Add a 2-3 inch layer of organic matter to the soil and dig it in. This will allow the organic matter to break down and your bed will be ready to plant next spring.

Pick green tomatoes with no blemishes or soft spots. Wrap individually in newspaper and store in a dry place indoors. They should ripen in a few weeks.

Pick pumpkins at a local pumpkin farm. Avoid pumpkins with soft spots or blemishes. Keep a stem on the pumpkin. Do not hold the pumpkin by the stem. For a listing of local pumpkin farms, check out our Pumpkins and More site at http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/pumpkins or call 773-233-0476 for a list.

Prepare for frost. Our average frost occurs in Chicagoland around mid-October. Frosts are often followed by a few weeks of growing weather. Remember last year's warm fall? Cover plants with floating row covers, newspaper or sheets. Be sure to cover tender plants like tomatoes and peppers. Lettuce and beets can survive a light frost while broccoli, cabbage, radishes and spinach can survive a hard frost.

Ornamental

Continue to mow the lawn as long as the grass is growing.

Lift tender summer bulbs such as dahlias, cannas, gladiolii and tuberous begonias after frost. Shake off soil, let the bulb dry and store in a cool, dark place. Check throughout the winter for shriveling or rotting bulbs. Factsheet available.

Plant bulbs now. Bulbs can be planted until the ground freezes. Squeeze bulb between your thumb and index finger. The bulb should be firm to the touch and not feel hollow. Plant larger bulbs in groups of 5-12. Smaller bulbs should be planted in masses of 50 or more for a spectacular effect. Factsheet available.

Protect bulbs from rodents. Plant daffodils. The daffodil bulb has a toxin in it which squirrels do not like. Another alternative is to dig out an area, plant your bulbs and cover them with _ inch mesh hardware cloth. Factsheet available.

Become a Master Gardener. Call 773-233-0476 for more information or an application or apply online at http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/chicago/mg/application.html

Watch for the Asian lady beetle. These beetles are multi-colored from yellow to red. Older homes will attract more beetles because they usually have more cracks for easy entry. If you were invaded last fall, you more than likely will be welcoming beetles this fall, because they emit a phermone (scent) that persists.

Try goldenrod for late season color in the garden. Goldenrod makes a spectacular splash of yellow in fields and along roadsides. There are shorter types of goldenrod available for the small garden. Try one of these cultivars, 'Crown of Rays,' Golden Baby,''Golden Fleece' and 'Golden Thumb.'

Are branch tips form your trees falling to the ground? This is a common fall occurrence and is most likely caused by two beetles, the twig girdler and the twig pruner. Chewing of the branches occurs during the beetles' reproductive phase. Fallen branches can be up to two inches in diameter. Chemical control is not necessary.

Plant lilies now. During the first year growth and flowering from fall planted lilies is better than lilies planted in the spring. Small bulbs should be planted four inches deep and large one 6-8 inches deep.

November

Ornamental

Rake fallen leaves from grass. Leaves left on lawn over winter will smother and kill grass.

Plant spring flowering bulbs as long as the ground is not frozen.

Not cutting back perennials may help to protect the crown. If you mulch, go ahead and cut them back.

Cut down your own Christmas tree at a local farm. Call 773-233-0476 for a free list or check out our Christmas Trees and more site at http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/trees

November

Edible

Place all weeds, leaves and disease-free dead plant material in the compost pile.

Clean and store all your garden equipment and tools. Factsheet available.

Drain outdoor water pipes.

Kill insects by fall digging or tilling the garden. This exposes the insects to winter cold, reducing their numbers in next year's garden.

Store root crops - carrots, turnips and Jerusalem artichokes in the ground. Bury these crops under a heavy layer of straw.

November

Indoors

Turn your houseplants to promote even growth.

On cold nights move houseplants back from icy windows to prevent chilling injury.

Keep potted overwintering geraniums in bright light and cool temperatures. Keep soils on the dry side.

Now is the time to prune out dead wood and cankers from trees and shrubs. You will probably get scratched up a bit more now than once leaves fall, but it is much easier to see the dead areas to remove.

A canker is a dead area on the stem or trunk of a tree or shrub. The vascular tissue under the canker is dead and usually brown or black. The term "canker" is a general term referring to a symptom on the plant, but it does not indicate cause. A human analogy is the canker sore we get in or around the mouth. Cankers on plants may be caused by injuries (hail, mowers, insect feeding, etc.), environmental stress (cold, heat, cold, etc.), chemicals or pathogens. They are common on a wide range of trees and shrubs, typically occurring on trunks, older branches or injured plant areas on smaller twigs.

As the canker girdles the stem, leaves begin to wilt, turning yellow and then brown. Some young twigs may curl downward; their bark may lose color or blacken, depending on the canker or plant involved. The cankers produced by fire blight are often black on pear and brown on apple. If a canker girdles the stem, the twig dies from that point to the tip. If the stem is not girdled, the stem may show one-sided death or some leaves are affected while others are green. Cankers usually take months, sometimes years, to enlarge enough to girdle twigs, branches and trunks. Canker appearance may be swollen, sunken, cracked, discolored or bleeding sap or moisture.

Fungi are usually the causal organisms involved in canker development, but occasionally we find a bacterial canker. The fungal cankers often contain fruiting bodies of the fungus. These appear as pinhead-sized black specks embedded in the bark. Often, these fruiting bodies appear as small bumps covering the cankered area. In wet weather, they may exude colorful spore tendrils. Bacterial cankers do not contain fruiting bodies.

Although we find a pathogen in association with many cankers, the pathogens are usually opportunistic fungi. They do not cause problems on healthy trees, infecting only trees under stress. For this reason, canker fungi are known as stress pathogens. Canker pathogens enter through environmental injuries such as sunscald (summer or winter) or through injuries caused by insects, diseases, pruning, animals and mechanical and chemical sources or through weakened tissue caused by poor growing conditions, transplant shock, excess or deficient soil moisture, rapid temperature changes, nutritional imbalance and extensive defoliation.

Remove cankered wood, cutting until you leave only healthy wood on the branch. If cankers occur on the trunk, you may opt to leave them alone or remove as much of the decayed wood as possible so that the tree can more readily callous over the injured area. You can cut off spruce branches that die from Cytospora canker right up to the trunk, but you cannot remove infection from the trunk. Prune out stem cankers where aesthetically unappealing or where it is obvious that they will soon girdle the stem. Some cankers, such as anthracnose on sycamore, cannot be removed without removing most branches. Leave these on the tree and take measures to promote tree health.

When pruning out cankers, keep in mind that this wood is infected with a pathogen. Remove affected wood from the site. Disinfect pruning shears between cuts where possible. Always try to prune in dry weather to prevent pathogen spread. With oaks, we prune only in the dormant season to avoid attracting beetles that might bring the oak wilt fungus to the tree.

Once pruning is completed, consider how to avoid cankers and dead wood in the future. Because stress is the actual predisposing factor for cankers, the first step toward disease management is identifying the source of stress. Once the source is identified, correct or modify the site, soil or surrounding plants to make the conditions less conducive to cankers. This approach might involve diverting drainage away from the plant, pruning surrounding plants to allow better air flow, fertilizing the tree, providing water in drought, etc. Reduce risk of cankers by using plants, adapted to your area. Buy vigorous, healthy-looking plants. Plant at the proper depth. Space plants based on mature size. Grow plants in well-drained, fertile soils with the needed soil pH for best plant growth. In other words, avoiding cankers is one of the major reasons for following all of those good horticultural practices we have all learned.

Source: Nancy Pataky, Home, Yard and Garden Pest Newsletter, October 2002

September

• Overseeding and establishment (optimum time) - first week
• Fertilization (key time) - first 2 weeks
• Cultivation (aerification, spiking, slicing) - lawn should be actively growing
• Postemergence broadleaf week control to actively growing weeds (optimum time)

October

• Post-emergence broadleaf weed control (early in month) if weeds actively growing
• Cultivation (aerification, spiking, slicing) - lawn should be actively growing

November

• Mowing until dormant
• Late season fertilization within one week of final mowing of year

No, no! Not the art of throwing food as in the cafeteria wars. Although many of you may have fond memories of cafeteria food fights - this "phyte" is Greek for"plant" as in phytonutrients or phytochemicals. Phytonutrients (pronounced fi-to/nutrients) are plant-based chemical substances that aid in disease prevention in humans. They are the part of a plant, which provides color, flavor and fragrance. Phytochemicals are also a part of a plant's natural defense system.

Phytochemicals might sound like something you would want to avoid, but in reality these naturally occurring components in fruits, vegetables, legumes and grains are worth embracing. Scientists have known for a long time that a plant-based diet provides added protection against chronic diseases and aging, but until recent years the plant part responsible for this protection was unknown.

The problem: biologically active phytochemicals tend to be bitter, acrid or astringent in taste. According to researchers, humans are naturally sensitized to bitter tastes as being poisonous, so we tend to reject excessively bitter foods. Some people just do not like them. Many scientists believe this is why consumers are not rushing out to buy more cabbage, Brussels sprouts, collards or kale which are loaded with healthful phytonutrients. The most important factor in food choice is still taste.

Although some phytochemicals are available in supplement form, the study of these nutrients is still in infancy stage. Researchers warn that phytonutrients in supplement form have "inherent risks and myriad unknowns." Most researchers agree that phytochemicals are likely to work best in their naturally occurring food substances in a balanced diet. In conclusion, your mother was right when she said, "eat your vegetables."

To learn tips on becoming a savvy supplement user visit www.cfsan.fda.gov/~dms/ds-savvy.html#basic. Or request a copy by mail by calling Gladys at (773) 233-0476.

Resource: The Taste of Health: Nature's Bitter Gift by A. Barratt-Fornell and A. Drewnowski. Nutrition Today, Volume 37, Number 4, July/August 2002.

Bag Dried Herbs

The bag drying method differs from sun drying since it takes place indoors in a well-ventilated room, attic, car, camper or screened-in-porch. You don't have to have an herb garden to take advantage of drying herbs - buy fresh herbs at the farmers' market, roadside stand or even the supermarket. Although any herb can be dried using this method, sturdy, low moisture herbs such as sage, thyme, summer savory and parsley dry best.

Gather branches of herbs, cut with plenty of stem left. Strip away tougher leaves growing lower than about six inches on the stalk. Wash herbs by swishing the branches through cold water, holding by stem ends. Shake off excess water and lay on towels until moisture has evaporated (1 to 3 hours). Wet herbs will mold while drying, if this happens toss the entire bag.

Bundle 6 to 8 stem ends together and secure with string or rubber band. Enclose branches upside down in a large paper bag. Gather the bag around the stems and tie. Using a pencil or knife, punch about 10 holes all around the bag for air circulation. Label and date each bag. Suspend in an airy place for two to three weeks. Herbs will be crispy when dry. The bag protects herbs from dust and other pollutants during the drying process.

Oven Dried Herbs

Basil, tarragon, lemon balm and mints have high moisture content and will mold if not dried quickly. Remove the best leaves from the stems, wash and dry. Lay the leaves on a paper towel, single layer without allowing leaves to touch. Cover with another towel and another layer of leaves. Five layers may be dried at one time using this method.

Dry in a very cool oven (high temperatures will result in tasteless herbs).

The oven light of an electric range or the pilot light of a gas range furnishes enough heat for overnight drying. Leaves dry flat and retain good color. Herbs are ready when they are crispy dry. Store in airtight containers in a cool, dry, dark area to protect color, flavor and fragrance. Crumble when ready to use. Add dried herbs to cooked foods during the last 5 to 10 minutes of cooking time for best flavor.

Dried Pumpkin Seeds

Drying seeds and roasting seeds are two different processes. To dry: carefully wash pumpkin seeds to remove the clinging fibrous pumpkin tissue. Pumpkin and squash seeds can be dried in a dehydrator at 115-120°F for 1 to 2 hours, or in an oven set on warm for 3 to 4 hours. Stir them frequently to avoid scorching.

To roast, take dried pumpkin seeds, toss with oil and/or salt and roast on a cookie sheet in a preheated 250°F oven for 10 to 15 minutes.

Dried Sunflower Seeds

Sunflower seeds usually are left on the flower to dry. The flower may need to be wrapped with cheesecloth or old clean pantyhose to prevent birds and squirrels from eating the seeds. Seeds may be dried in the sun or in a dehydrator at 100°F for 3 to 4 hours (higher temperatures affect the flavor). When seeds are dried, they can be roasted in a shallow pan at 300°F for 10 to 15 minutes. Salt after roasting.

Hot Chilies (Peppers) on a String

Thin-skinned hot chilies dry quite nicely at room temperature. Select mature, red (ripe) Cayenne peppers or other thin-skinned variety. Wash and dry each pepper. Use a trussing needle or large sewing needle with white string or thread and tie a knot at the end. Push the needle through the stem/cap of each chili and string the chilies alternately left and right forming a long row. Tie a loop on the end. Suspend the chilies inside a paper bag with several air holes, gather top of bag around chilies with the loop exposed. Secure with a rubber band and hang the bag in an airy room. When dry the pods will look shriveled and deep red - about two to three weeks. Use peppers crushed or whole. They will keep their flavor and color for about a year to eighteen months. Wash hands with plenty of soapy water after handling fresh or dried hot chilies; their oils can irritate eyes, finger tips and/or sensitive skin.

Note: Thick-skinned and sweet peppers (bell, wax) do not dry fast enough on a string at room temperature. They will mold and decay. For these, use a dehydrator or freeze, no pre-treatment necessary.

Resource: So Easy to Preserve by the University of Georgia Cooperative Extension Service, Fourth Edition, 1999, Bulletin 989.

It's Tomato Time

Fresh vine-ripened tomatoes are at their best in late summer and early fall. Tomatoes are naturally sweet, rich in vitamin C, beta carotene, fiber, water and the phytonutrient lycopene. Can a batch of tomatoes for use in long cooking winter meals. You will be so glad you did.

Tomatoes also freeze beautifully and it is so easy. Wash ripe tomatoes and peel by dipping in boiling water for 30 seconds or until the skin splits. Cool in ice water, core and quarter, if desired. Pack in zip closure freezer bags and freeze for up to six months. Freezing changes the texture of tomatoes so they will not be appropriate for use in fresh salads, use for cooking.

Let's face it, local tomatoes preserved during the growing season will be far superior in flavor to any thick-sided, flat shouldered, crate packed winter tomato from who knows where. The industry needs to work on improving the winter breeds. They are bred for shipping quality not taste. For more information on tomatoes visit Watch your garden grow at www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/veggies. For canning information visit the National Center for Home Food Preservation at www.uga.edu/nchfp/projects.html.

Which has more vitamin C, one cup chopped tomato, kiwi, orange sections? The U. S. Department of Agriculture's Research Service has developed a website which lists information on 1,147 commonly eaten foods. The site lists values in 30 nutrient categories, including energy (calories), protein, fat, cholesterol, carbohydrates, vitamins and minerals.

For each nutrient, you can also have the directory sort alphabetically by food name or by nutrient content, from highest to lowest. To access the USDA directory online visit http://www.nal.usda.gov/fnic/foodcomp/Data/SR14/sr14.html. By the way, one cup chopped tomato, kiwi or orange sections contains 34 mg, 173 mg and 94 mg vitamin C respectively. The recommended intake for vitamin C is 75 mg per day for women and 90 for men. Sorry, this information is currently only available online.

Can vegetarian diets be healthy for the entire family? According to the American Dietetics Association's Position Paper on Vegetarianism, well-planned vegetarian diets can be appropriate for all stages of the life cycle. Vegetarian diets can meet the nutritional needs of infants, children, adults and senior citizens. Also well-planned vegetarian diets can satisfy the needs of pregnant and lactating women and athletes. Even the most restrictive of vegetarian diets, the vegan diet (no animal products), can be healthy if planned appropriately.

The Vegetarian Food Guide Pyramid

Use the Vegetarian Pyramid to help plan healthy vegetarian meals each day for the entire family.

• Bread, Cereal and Grain Group: 6-11 servings daily

• Vegetable Group: 3-5 servings daily

• Fruit Group: 2-4 servings daily

• Milk, Yogurt, Cheese Group: 2-3 servings daily (vegans need to select other rich sources of calcium)

• Dry Beans, Nuts, Seeds, Meat Substitutes: 2-3 servings daily

• Fats, Oils, Sweets, Salty Foods: Use sparingly

Vegetarian Nutrition

• Protein - Protein has been referred to as the "great non-issue." Vegetarians can easily meet or exceed their protein needs as long as they eat a varied diet. A mixture of protein rich foods throughout the day will provide the important essential amino acids required. To be safe, vegans may wish to include good protein sources such as: tofu, soy milk or tempeh, in addition to lentils, nuts, peas, whole grains and beans.

• Vitamin B12 helps prevent anemia and aids in the utilization of iron. Although the recommended intake is very low, plant-based sources of B12 are not good sources. Microorganisms make all vitamin B12 in nature. The best sources are animal products. Vegetarians (specifically vegans) can get the vitamin B12 they need fromsome fortified cereals, nutritional yeast and some fermented products. Be sure to check labels to see if a product is fortified with B12. Vegans and senior citizens who are vegans should consider consuming a B12 supplement.

• Calcium can be obtained from low-fat dairy products, dark leafy green vegetables and tofu prepared with calcium and fortified soy and rice milks.

• Iron can be a problem for vegetarians if they do not choose wisely. Be sure to include good plant sources of iron such as dark greens, dried beans, blackstrap molasses, prune juice and dried fruits. Some orange juice, tomato juice or anyother vitamin C rich food would make the perfect compliment to a vegetarian meal since vitamin C helps to improve and increase the absorption of iron.Thinking of making a change to a vegetarian diet?

Recent statistics indicate that vegetarian diets are becoming more popular. Today, it is estimated that close to 10% of the U. S. population consider themselves vegetarians. The "semi" - vegetarian (continues to eat some form of meat but has increased the proportion of plant-based foods in their diet) is also increasing in popularity.

Whether you and your family are thinking of making a change to a vegetarian diet or you are already practicing vegetarians, the key to a healthy diet is to include variety. Eat plenty of dark, leafy greens, whole grains, fruits and vegetables. Also, be sure to include protein rich beans, peas, seeds and fortified soy products. If you are a vegan, be sure to select adequate sources of B12 or supplement your diet.

Resource: U. S. Dept. of Agriculture - Written by guest author: Lynnette Mensah, MS, Extension Educator, Nutrition & Wellness

An apple a day will keep the doctor away! Well, not literally but an apple a day will get the nutritionist's okay. Adding apples to your diet is a positive start toward increasing both soluble and insoluble fiber. Among the many nutrients, apples contain the soluble fiber pectin. Research shows soluble fiber may help to reduce serum cholesterol thus reducing the risk of heart disease and stroke.

Apples are Americans favorite fresh fruit snack and they are in season right now. Grocery stores offer about ten of the most popular varieties (those that ship well). If you visit a roadside stand or farmers' market, you will find interesting varieties that may be new to you. Even better – visit a local apple orchard for guaranteed fresh apples. Pick your own. Why not try one you've never tasted before.

For a plethora of apple information, more great recipes, folklore and classroom projects, visit the Urban Resource Network's Apples & More website at www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/apples.

• The Institute of Medicine, a branch of the National Academy of Sciences, is now calling for at least an hour of daily physical activity, which is double the 1996 recommendation of 30 minutes? For adults and children alike, the Institute is urging 60 minutes of moderate activity, such as swimming, taking a brisk walk, or jogging to maintain weight as well as for other health benefits. The National Academy of Science is an independent organization chartered by Congress to provide guidance to the government on scientific issues. To read a summary or the full report from the Academy request a written copy of the summary by calling the University of Illinois Extension office at (773) 233-0476.

• Olive oil has a low smoke point. The smoke point is the highest temperature cooking oil can reach before it stars to break down, smoke and burn. Generally canola, safflower, sunflower, soy and corn oils will not begin to smoke until they reach about 420°F. Olive oil, depending on purity, will begin to smoke and burn at much lower temperatures, from 360°F to 380°F. Since frying must be done at a high temperature, typically about 325°F to 375°F, you must keep a close eye on the olive oil to avoid over heating, which can create very unpleasant flavors.

• Most Southerners drink iced tea with added sugar, lots of added sugar? In fact tea is served quite sweet in most southern restaurants. In restaurants outside of the south iced tea is generally served without added sugar, if you want your tea sweetened you simply add sugar or sugar substitute in the desired amount. The term "sweet tea" is used to differentiate between unsweetened tea and southern style sweetened tea. If you are in a southern restaurant and order iced tea, it will probably be served sweet unless you specify "unsweetened."

Baking apples are best for this recipe, because they are firm and will hold their shape (Golden Delicious, Granny Smith, Stayman, to name a few). Any apple can be used for cooking, depending on the desired results. For instance if you are making applesauce, a soft apple works well although it may not perform well in a pie because it will cook up to a mushiness resembling applesauce pie.

The Cake

• 3 cups all purpose flour

• 1 teaspoon baking soda

• 1/2 teaspoon salt

• 2 cups sugar

• 3/4 cup vegetable oil

• 1 whole egg plus 3 egg whites

• 2 teaspoons vanilla

• 3 medium baking apples, peeled and chopped

• 1 cup finely chopped walnuts

Icing for cake:

• 1/4 cup margarine or butter (1/2 stick)

• 1/2 cup brown sugar, firmly packed

• 1/3 cup fat-free evaporated milk

1. Preheat oven to 325°F. Spray a 13 x 9 inch baking pan with oil or grease lightly.

2. In a medium bowl mix flour, baking soda, and salt.

3. In a large bowl mix sugar, oil, egg and egg whites and vanilla. Beat with an electric mixer or whisk until smooth and light.

4. Stir in flour mixture. Mix just to combine. Add apples and nuts, mix.

5. Pour into prepared pan. Push batter evenly into corners of the pan so the cake will have an even top.

6. Bake for 1 hour. Cool for 15 minutes then add topping, if desired. Serve plain or with your favorite ice cream or flavored yogurt.

For the topping:

1. In a medium saucepan, melt butter or margarine over medium heat. Do not brown the butter.

2. Stir in brown sugar and milk. Turn heat up to medium high and bring to a boil. Then reduce heat to low and simmer gently for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally.

3. Pierce warm cake all over with a skewer or two-tined fork. Drizzle hot topping all over the cake. Cool for 30 minutes before serving.

Makes 20 servings.

Nutrition information: serving size 1/20 of cake, 20 servings per cake. Calories 295, total fat 12.5 grams. Cholesterol 15 mg. Sodium 96 mg. Total carbohydrates 38 grams. Fiber 1 gram. Sugar 26 grams, Protein 3 grams.