Earlier in the season, we were concerned about a predicted drought. Now it seems that heavy rains are more common. As they say, if you don't like the weather, just wait and it will change. Excessively wet soils have led to many cases of rotted roots on annuals, perennials and nonwoody plants in the landscape. We've had more problems with established plants because roots were initially injured by drought. Plants may be stunted or low in vigor, may grow slowly, or may wilt easily on a warm day. These problems always become more visible in hot weather because the lack of healthy roots causes a more rapid decline of plants, which is very noticeable to the homeowners. The foliage may turn yellow to brown and drop prematurely, usually starting with the older leaves and moving up the plant. The severity of the root rot depends on the fungal pathogen, the susceptibility of the host plant and the soil and moisture conditions.

If a root rot is suspected, remove the plant from the ground carefully, place it in a bucket of water and carefully move the plant up and down in the water to dislodge the soil. Then examine the roots for indications of rotting. If roots are washed too vigorously, all of the rotted tissue will be washed off, often leaving a white root interior that appears healthy, but close examination will show that such roots are much thinner than healthy white roots. A healthy plant has numerous white roots that appear fibrous. Roots of a diseased plant show various degrees of water soaking and usually are some shade of brown or black, both externally and internally. The discolored roots are often soft and mushy, while healthy roots are firm. There are many root-rot pathogens, but the major root-rot fungi that are encountered in Illinois landscapes are Rhizoctonia, Fusarium, Pythium and Phytophthora. In a very simplified scheme, we can group the first two fungi as those causing a dry rot, often with a reddish pink cast, to affected roots. Pythium and Phytophthora can be grouped as the types causing a soft, brown-to-black rot of roots.

Prevent root rots from becoming a problem in our gardens by using sound horticultural practices. This includes use of healthy transplants, proper site preparation to provide good water drainage away from roots, use of balanced fertilizer and rotation on the garden plantings for 2 or 3 years with unrelated plants to help prevent the buildup of pathogens in one area. It is also important to remove crop residue at the end of the season to help reduce pathogen survival. Once a pathogen is identified, try to find and use resistant varieties when available. Even if all of the above practices are followed, root rot may still occur. Fungicides are available to control the major groups of fungi discussed here. The fungicides protect plant stems and roots not yet affected but do not "cure" infected plants. Their use seems most significant in cases where a root rot is discovered in a flower bed and the goal is to preserve remaining healthy plants to the end of the season.

Source: Nancy Pataky, University of Illinois

Thinking about overseeding your lawn? Considering planting a new lawn area or totally replacing an existing one? Now is the time.

Even though thoughts of lawn seeding often focus on spring, right now is actually the best time. Soils are warm, so seeds germinate rapidly.

Weed problems, principally crabgrass, are less concern as we move into fall. Cooler weather favors rapid development of grasses with little stress. The main thing that could be missing is rainfall, so be sure to have an irrigation plan if rain sparse.

When overseeding or repairing a lawn area, it is critical to have good seed to soil contact. If seed is just scattered over living grass and debris, little will germinate and grow. The site needs some preparation to assure overseeding success.

If replacing an entire lawn, existing debris can be tilled under or removed. If existing grass or weeds exist, either pull them out or treat with the herbicide glyphosate (Roundup, Kleerway). Glyphosate may take 10 to 14 days to kill the vegetation, so apply as soon as possible to get the lawn seeded in time.

Overseeding existing lawn areas can be more difficult. One way to achieve good results is to use a slit-seeder that will plant seed through existing grass and debris right into the soil. Vertical mowers, or dethatchers, could also be used, but keep in mind that can be destructive to existing grass. After using these machines, rake away debris and overseed the area.

In the process of overseeding, minor corrections in surface levels can also be done. For example, small depressions can be filled in with quality soil. The lawn could be core aerated prior to adding soil. If replacing an entire lawn area, be sure to thoroughly amend problem soil, such as clay, with organic matter or quality loam soil.

Finally, be sure to overseed with the right grass. If overseeding into an existing lawn, match the mix with the species present. Adding quality cultivars can help increase stress tolerances. When replacing lawn, match the grass to the site factors. Kentucky bluegrass, often mixed with perennial ryegrass, is best for full sun. When shade influences the site, fine fescues become the preferred species, often mixed with shade tolerant Kentucky bluegrass cultivars.

The Asian longhorned beetle has been under attack over the past several years, by city, state and federal officials. A concerted effort is in place in Illinois to contain this new pest, which has resulted in the loss of many trees, large and small. Unfortunately, so far tree removal is the only available means of control.

Now, a new weapon may be on the horizon. Preliminary test results of a systemic insecticide indicate that it could turn the tide of this battle. Imidacloprid (commercially known as Merit or Imicide) has been tested by USDA and Chinese researchers (in the beetle's homeland of China) and they found that it may offer an effective means of protecting susceptible trees and help contain the spread of the Asian longhorned beetle.

In tests, both soil and trunk injections of imidacloprid moved into stems, twigs and foliage where newly emerged adult beetles feed before females deposit their eggs beneath the bark.

This not only exposed many adult beetles to a lethal dose of insecticide, but also produced some egg and early instar larvae mortality.

Of course, this may be good news, but considerable testing in the United States still needs to be done to determine the overall effectiveness of this insecticide to control the Asian longhorned beetle. Many questions need to be answered before imidacloprid can be labeled and recommended for use against this insect.

Meanwhile, over the past few years, the Asian longhorned beetle has been causing damage in the Ravenswood area of Chicago, in Summit, Illinois and near Addison, Illinois. To prevent the spread of the insect, more than 1,300 infested trees have been destroyed. This strategy appears to be working–the beetles have not been sighted in other towns or neighborhoods–but aesthetic and financial losses have been mounting. Ongoing surveys continue to detect infested trees.

The Asian longhorned beetle is about 1-1/4 inches long and shiny black with scattered white markings on its back. Its antennae are banded in white and black. In its larval stage it burrows into the tree, causing substantial tunneling. Heavy infestations kill whole limbs at first, but over time the beetle causes a general decline in the health of the tree.

Because the Asian longhorned beetle remains inside a tree for up to two years, it will take at least that much time to assess the effectiveness of imidacloprid in field studies. It's also why a systemic insecticide is necessary to control it. A systemic insecticide makes its way throughout a tree or plant, unlike a topical one that only affects insects on the surface.

Imidacloprid is one of the safest systemic insecticides if used properly. If it is approved for use to control Asian longhorned beetles, applications should be done by a tree specialist.

Experiments have already begun in Chicago's Ravenswood neighborhood. Researchers will compare the effectiveness of different application methods–soil injection vs. trunk injection. Trees receiving those applications will also be compared with untreated trees.

This promising insecticide is also offering an opportunity for a preemptive strike against the spread of Asian longhorned beetles outside the known infested areas. To create a "protected" buffer zone, nearly 7,000 trees adjacent to core infestation sites will be treated with trunk injections of imidacloprid.

There is no guarantee that this approach will be effective and infested trees will still be cut and chipped.

New regulations have also gone into effect to prevent more Asian longhorned beetles from inadvertently coming into this country. Packing crates and other possibly infested wood that travel here from a number of Asian locations must be treated to eradicate the pest.

Source: Philip Nixon, Entomologist, University of Illinois

August

• Monitor for pests (annual white grubs mid-August thru September) (Sod webworm).
• Irrigation (as needed)
  
• Prepare for seeding, overseeding (optimum time)
• Seeding - latter half of month (optimum time)

September

• Overseeding and establishment (optimum time) - first week
• Fertilization (key time) - first 2 weeks
• Cultivation (aerification, spiking, slicing) - lawn should be actively growing
  
• Postemergence broadleaf weed control to actively growing weeds (optimum time)

As summer moves along, some insects become less common while others start to appear. The Japanese beetle is fading away, for example. Typical late summer insects present now include fall webworm, annual cicada, and katydids.

Cicadas and katydids are heard more than seen. The annual or dog-day cicada makes considerable noise while sitting up in shade trees during the heat of the day. Some refer to them as "sewing bugs." This is not the same insect as the periodical cicada, which is also called either the 13 or 17-year locust. Annual cicadas rarely cause noticeable damage to trees, so control is rarely suggested.

Katydids also make noise while sitting in trees, but at night. Male katydids "sing" through much of the night from the tops of trees. Katydids are green, about 2 to 3 inches long, and have both long antennae and legs. These insects do not cause any significant damage to trees. Depending on your point of view, their singing may be annoying or just a soothing sound of the summer night.

Of the three, fall webworms are the most visible. Silk tents have been showing up in a variety of shade trees. Close inspection reveals caterpillars inside. As they feed and grow, these caterpillars make the web larger to cover more foliage. When young, the caterpillars will only eat the upper surface of the leaf, but as they get older they will eat the entire leaf except larger veins and the midrib. When full grown, they drop to the ground to pupate.

Don't confuse fall webworm with the eastern tent caterpillar, which is out very early in spring. Likewise, fall webworms should not be mistaken for gypsy moth, which does not make tent-like webs in trees.

It may be unsightly, but fall webworm is rarely a threat to tree health in northern Illinois because it is late in the season. Although still green, trees are actually preparing for dormancy so having some defoliation now is not considered very damaging. If reachable, clip off the web and destroy it. If using insecticides, spray into the web to get control.

Insecticides that will control fall webworms include Bacillus thuringiensis (Dipel, Caterpillar Attack, etc), carbaryl (Sevin), malathion, and acephate (Orthene).

Source: Bruce Spangenberg, Extension Educator, Horticulture, University of Illinois Extension

Greenfingers.com
www.greenfingers.com
This is a very good English gardening site with over 150 illustrated guides on various gardening projects.

Garden Gate Magazine
www.gardengatemagazine.com
This is an online version of the magazine. Good feature articles; garden tips and how to garden projects.

Tomato Leaf Roll
The edges of leaflets roll inward toward the mid-vein and the leaflet is somewhat leathery to the touch. This is caused by a fluctuation in moisture in the root zone, going from ample moisture to a shortage or by excessive pruning. Fortunately this problem does not adversely affect the production of tomatoes. Leaves remain green and hang on the plant, though affected leaflets do not unroll. If you are irrigating, try to keep the soil moisture level consistent and account for rainfall when irrigating. Some tomato varieties are more susceptible to leaf roll than others, such as Beefsteak, Big Boy and Floramerica.

Crabgrass Prevalent
Crabgrass has become quite noticeable and abundant in some lawns, particularly along driveways and sidewalks, areas where lawn grasses are usually stressed. The hot, moist conditions in July contributed to it's germination and rapid growth. However, there is no herbicide treatment for crabgrass now. Remember, it is an annual grass, and will die out with a hard freeze this fall. For now, dig plants, keep it mowed off or clip off the seed heads to eliminate seed set and a further buildup of seed in the soil.

White Grubs Update
Adult annual white grubs (masked chafers) emerged in central Illinois during the last week of June and were reported in northern Illinois a few days earlier. Checking beetle number around lights at about 10:30 p.m. will provide insight on both the northern and southern masked chafer emergence in your area. The number of adult Japanese beetles present during the day on landscape plants will give you an idea of their numbers.

The relative number of these adults plus the soil moisture will provide you with the information you need for preventative white grub treatments in turf. All three species feed in the larval stage as white grubs on the roots of turfgrass. The adults are attracted to damp soil, which they tunnel into to lay their eggs.

If your area has received enough rainfall so that non-irrigated grass is green with moist soil and the beetle flight is not unusually heavy, then it is likely that grubs will be present in damaging numbers only in small areas, which are conducive to spot treatments with quick-acting insecticides in August. If only irrigated turf is very green with moist soil and the adult flight is normal to heavy, then those irrigated turf areas will likely have heavy grub numbers. These are the turf areas where imidicloprid (Merit) or halo–fenozide (Mach 2, Grubex) should be applied by the end of this month to prevent grub damage in the second half of August. Many areas of the state have enough soil moisture that white grubs will not be a problem this year. However, that can reverse itself if the rains stop and temperatures are high for the next couple of weeks and unwatered turf goes dormant.

August - Edible

Control tomato leafspots. Factsheet available.

Control tomato wilt diseases. Factsheet available.

Try sowing a crop of rye, rye grass or oats in unused garden areas for a green manure crop. Factsheet available.

Harvest your herbs and hang them in a dark, well ventilated location.

Dried herbs should be stored in an air tight container. Preserving & harvesting herbs factsheet available.

Brown areas in your lawn may indicate white grub damage. Check your lawn for browned areas that can be lifted like a rug. Factsheet available.

Plan a family outing to one of the following county fairs:

• Kankakee County Fair - August 2 - August 6
  Fairgrounds 815-932-6714
• Kendall County Fair - August 4 - August 6
  Fairgrounds 630-553-2860
• McHenry County Fair - August 2 - August 6
  Fairgrounds 815-333-5315
• Will County Fair - August 23 - August 27
  Fairgrounds 708-258-6592
• Lake County Indiana Fair - August 4 - August 13
  219-663-3617
• Illinois State Fair - August 11 - August 20
  217-782-6661

August - Ornamental

Allow lily stems to die down naturally and cut off a few inches above the ground.

Plant shrub roses.

Fertilize hybrid teas around August 1; no later or new growth may not survive the winter.

Early fall color in trees is a sign of trouble.

Control wasps & bees. Factsheet available.

Control bagworms with Dipel or Thuricide. Factsheet available.

Finding sawdust at the base of tree? Control carpenter ants. Factsheet available.

Allow lawn clippings to filter back down in lawn. Clippings contain 75-80 percent water.

Did you know that a study at the University of Illinois showed mulching mowers did not provide any additional benefit over conventional mowers?

Reseed your lawn in late August. Factsheet available.

August - Indoor

Water houseplants with water at room temperature.

Keep houseplants away from cold drafts from air conditioning units.

September - Edible

Lettuce, kale, radishes and spinach can be seeded for a fall harvest.

Pick-your-own orchards are open. For a free listing of orchards give us a call or check out our Apples & More website at http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/apples/

September - Ornamental

Pull out dying annuals.

Plant mums, kale, flowering cabbage or pansies.

Collect soil for soil testing. Call 773-233-0476 for a soil testing booklet.

Mildew will develop but fungicides are not needed this late in the season.

Slugs become active in cold weather. Control with slug bait or stale beer in shallow pans. Call our office for factsheet.

Plant spring flowering bulbs. Factsheet available.

Check out our Bulbs & More website at http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/bulbs/

Keep squirrels out of beds by covering your bulb bed with chicken wire. Stake it at the edges so squirrels will not get under it.

Divide perennials.

Reseed lawn in early September. Fact sheet available.

Take cuttings from coleus. Will root easily in water.

Plant trees and shrubs.

Plant a green manure crop in empty garden areas. Factsheet available.

September - Indoors

Bring in houseplants that summered outdoors.

It's tomato season again and the small varieties are showing up first. Small tomatoes are concentrated in flavor, slightly sweet and grow in mouth-size portions ideal for summertime snacking. Restaurant chefs seem to like the new varieties of small tomatoes too, so, pay attention to your salad, the usual cherry tomato may be missing.

Once upon a time cherry tomatoes were the only bite-size tomatoes around. Not to "bad mouth" the cherry tomato, but, new and exciting small tomatoes are competing for space on the plate. One trip to the farmers' market will reveal a whole host of wonderful mini-tomatoes available to shoppers in a wide range of colors, shapes, sizes, textures and flavors. There are also several new varieties of cherry tomatoes such as Sweet 100 and Red Robin.

Within the small tomato category, the first name of the tomato is usually an indication of shape and size rather than flavor. The largest of the small tomato family have names like plum, ping pong, and pear while wee-tiny ones are called grape, wild cherry and currant. Each small tomato has it's own juiciness, flavor and texture so try as many as possible and purchase several different kinds.

Green grape tomatoes are not pretty but they are deliciously sweet and green with a yellow glow when ripe. Pear tomatoes and currant tomatoes are the smallest and they come in both red and yellow varieties. Sungolds are grape-size, bright orange tomatoes with a juicy, sweet and delicious texture. Gold nuggets are bright yellow, sweet and very tropical-fruitlike in flavor.

Another distinction with small tomatoes is they are almost always eaten fresh or just slightly cooked. For grilling, skewer a row together leaving space between each tomato and baste with a flavorful oil then grill for 5 to 7 minutes. Grilled small tomatoes can be mixed with salad greens or served as a side dish. Cut in half or quartered, small tomatoes are great sautčed or tossed with fresh herbs to make a quick summer salad.

Whatever you decide to do with your purchase of small tomatoes, keep it simple. Like large tomatoes, small varieties should be stored on the counter at room temperature until fully ripe and ready to eat.

Refrigerator temperatures destroy both flavor and texture of any variety of tomatoes. Contrary to popular belief, a sunny window sill does not hasten or improve the ripening process of tomatoes.

Tomatoes are naturally sweet, high in vitamin C, rich in beta carotene and lycopene (two disease fighting agents), low in sodium, and cheap at this time of year. So, stock up on tomatoes and enjoy them while they last.

Did you know that eating five servings of fruits and vegetables is one of the most important choices you can make to help maintain your health? So say researchers at the National Cancer Institute. Why is the National Cancer Institute getting involved in promoting fruits and vegetables?

For the last three decades, leading health authorities have been urging us to eat a diet low in fat and high in fiber, which includes lots of fruits, vegetables and whole grain products. Such a diet can actually reduce your risk of cancer. Fruits and vegetables are rich in natural agents that fight disease and strengthen the immune system.

Eating fruits and vegetables as part of a diet that is low in fat, saturated fat and cholesterol and high in fiber can decrease the risk of heart disease and other chronic diseases.

So why not eat fruit for dessert? Although none of the frozen concoctions below are really ice cream, they are just as much fun. Incorporate more fruit into you day with Apple Pie Frozen Yogurt, Banana Frozen Yogurt, Strawberry Sorbet or Watermelon Ice.

All of the recipes can be made without the use of an ice cream machine. For best results, use an electric hand mixer intermittently during the freezing time as the recipe directs.

All recipes can be successfully doubled or tripled. If you make a triple batch, freeze in three small, separate bowls or use an ice cream freezer.

Apple Pie Frozen Yogurt (serves 4)

1-1/4 cup thick, chunky-style applesauce, chilled
Large pinch of nutmeg
Large pinch of cinnamon
1/2 cup confectioners sugar
Finely grated zest and juice of one orange
1-1/4 cups plain yogurt, whipped

Put the applesauce in a bowl with nutmeg, cinnamon and
confections sugar and beat until light. Fold in the orange zest, orange juice and yogurt. Pour into individual one cup containers, cover and freeze until firm.

Banana Frozen Yogurt (serves 4)

2 cups very ripe bananas, mashed
1 tablespoon lime or lemon juice
1/4 cup brown sugar
1-1/2 cups fat-free plain yogurt

Put bananas in a large bowl or a food processor and blend with lime or lemon juice and sugar. Add yogurt, process until smooth and well blended. Pour into a plastic or metal bowl. Cover with plastic wrap and freeze 45 minutes. Remove from freezer and beat with an electric hand mixer or whisk until smooth. Return to freezer. Repeat at 45 minute intervals two more times during freezing. Before serving, allow mixture to set at room temperature for 20 minutes to soften.

Strawberry Sorbet (serves 6)

2 pounds fresh strawberries (may substitute other berries or melons)
1 cup confectioners sugar
2 tablespoons grenadine, optional
juice of one lemon

Puree the strawberries in a blender or food processor. Add
remaining ingredients. Pour mixture into a plastic or metal bowl. Cover with plastic wrap and freeze 45 minutes. Remove from freezer and beat with a whisk or hand mixer until smooth. Return sorbet to freezer. Repeat beating two more times at 45 minute intervals or freeze in an ice cream machine. Before serving allow sorbet to set at room temperature for 20 minutes to soften.

Watermelon Ice (serves 8)

1-1/4 cups sugar
1 cup water
1 cinnamon stick, optional
3 cups watermelon, without seeds
(may substitute other berries or melons)
juice of one lemon

In a heavy saucepan, mix sugar and water. Add cinnamon stick and boil for 1 minute. Refrigerate until chilled (about 1 hour). Puree watermelon with lemon juice. Refrigerate while sugar syrup is chilling. When cool, mix sugar syrup with watermelon. Pour into a plastic or metal bowl. Cover with plastic wrap and freeze 45 minutes. Remove from freezer and beat with a whisk or fork. Beat three times at 45 minute intervals.

Fresh culinary herbs are becoming more available during the winter months. They come from faraway places along with everything else in the produce section. Fresh parsley and cilantro have always been mainstays, but, in recent years, dill, rosemary and basil have become more plentiful although they are not always in the best condition. Bruising and mold are the two greatest enemies of fresh herbs in route to the store.

If you grow your own herbs you can snip small amounts for cooking all season long. You can easily dry or freeze some for a year-round supply of good quality herbs. Your own preparations will probably be of higher quality than anything found in the supermarkets and of course, much cheaper.

For retaining highest flavor and quality, air drying or room drying is the easiest, most inexpensive method for preserving herbs. Moisture evaporates slowly and naturally during air drying, leaving the precious herb oils behind. Dehydrators are useful if you are drying large quantities of herbs or high moisture herbs such as basil. Use a microwave oven as a last resort for drying as microwaves literally cook the herbs producing very poor quality.

Sturdy herbs are best suited for air-drying. They are less tender, low-moisture varieties such as sage, thyme, summer savory, dill, bay leaves, oregano, rosemary and marjoram. Basil, tarragon, lemon balm and the mints have a high moisture content and will mold if not dried quickly. Enclosing herbs in a paper bag, with holes for air circulation, protects them from dust and other pollutants. Chives are best frozen.

The best time to cut herbs for drying is just before they flower. This is when the leaves have the most oil, which is what gives herbs aroma and flavor. Different varieties of herbs flower at different times of the season, so look for buds or newly opened flowers as your clue for harvesting. But, if your herbs have already flowered, they can still be harvested and dried. Cut herbs in mid-morning when the leaves are dry but before the hot midday sun.

To air dry herbs, follow the following simple steps:

1. Use a sharp knife or scissors to cut large stems or branches from mature plants. Gently shake each branch to remove insects. Examine each branch and remove old, damaged or diseased leaves.
2. Rinse each branch in cold water and dry with towels or paper towels to remove all visible water. Wet herbs tend to mold which destroys the whole bunch.
3. Turn branches upside down and remove leaves along the upper stem. Lower leaves are not as pungent as the top leaves nearest buds. Tie five or six stems together in a small bunch. For high moisture herbs, use smaller bunches.
   
4. Place the bunch upside down in a large brown paper bag. Gather the bag around the stems and tie. Tear or cut several holes in the bag for ventilation. Make sure there is plenty of room inside the bag so leaves do not touch the sides of the bag. Write the name and date on each bag.
   
5. Hang the bag in a warm, airy room or attic. Leave undisturbed for about two weeks or longer.

When the leaves are dry, check for any signs of mold growth. Toss the entire bunch if moldy and try again. Strip dried leaves from stems and discard stems. Crush the leaves if desired, but keep in mind that whole herbs retain their flavor longer than crushed, ground or rubbed herbs.

Store dried herbs in small airtight containers away from the light. Zip closure plastic bags, colored bailing wire jars and ceramic crocks can be used for storage. Label and date each container.

Store herbs in a cool, dry, dark place (away from sunlight). Dried herbs keep for years but for best results use within a year. Most herbs will diminish in flavor with age and a larger amount will be needed to achieve the desired flavor in cooking.

Sage is the only herb that will grow stronger in flavor during storage. For making rubbed sage, place dried leaves in a wire strainer or sieve over a plate and rub against the side. Sage is a strong herb and rubbing creates smaller pieces for more even distribution in recipes.

To release the full flavor, crush whole herb leaves or use a mortar and pestle to grind, just before adding to the recipe. When using dried herbs, add to soups and stews during the last half-hour of cooking or follow recipe directions. Be creative and add dried herbs to flavor your favorite foods.

Removing Mold from Hard Cheese

Is it safe to eat moldy hard cheese if you trim away the mold? The answer is yes. Some cheese, of course, is made with mold, but you should be able to spot mold that shouldn't be there. When soft cheeses mold, toss the whole package.

In the case of hard cheese, block cheeses such as cheddar, Parmesan, Romano and Asiago can be salvaged by trimming an inch behind and below the mold growth. Keep your knife or cheese-wire out of the mold itself. After the surgery, recover the cheese with a fresh piece of plastic wrap.

Don't try to save individual slices of moldy cheese or soft cheese like Brie, cream cheese, Feta, Roquefort (blue cheese) or Mozzarella. If you spot any trace of mold on cottage cheese, yogurt or sour cream toss the entire contents.

Sunscreens: A Label Caution

The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has delayed implementation of new rules on sunscreen until December 2002. But, one new requirement for over-the-counter sunscreen products went into effect May 22, 2000. The new regulation requires all tanning products that do not contain sunscreen to carry the following warning statement on the label:

"Warning - This product does not contain a sunscreen and does not protect against sunburn. Repeated exposure of unprotected skin while tanning may increase the risk of skin aging, skin cancer and other harmful effects to the skin even if you do not burn."

Tanning products that do not contain sunscreens and do not protect against the harmful effects of UV light are regulated as cosmetics. FDA requires this warning statement so that consumers are fully informed that such products do not provide protection from the sun. For more information about using sunscreens and sun safety contact the FDA web site at consumer information, FDA Consumer Magazine, July/August issue at: www.fda.gov/opacom/morecons.html and read the "Trying to Look Sunsational" article.

Resource: FDA Consumer July/August 2000 Vol. 34 No. 4

Tiny Tomato Salad with Basil Ribbons (serves 4)

When using small tomatoes in a salad, cut them in half or quarters. Use one variety of tomatoes or mix several for a colorful adventure in flavor and texture.

2 pints mixed red and yellow Pear and Sungold tomatoes*
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
1 /4 cup olive oil
1/2 teaspoon each salt and fresh ground pepper
1/4 cup whole basil leaves, washed
Parmesan cheese, optional

Wash and dry tomatoes. Cut tomatoes in half, stem end to blossom end. Transfer to a large bowl, set aside. In a small bowl, combine vinegar, salt and pepper. Add olive oil in a steady stream, gently whisking to combine. Wash and dry basil leaves. Stack large leaves on top of each other then roll into a tight scroll. Cut across the scroll and the basil will form tiny ribbons. Continue until all the leaves are cut. Sprinkle basil ribbons over tomatoes and toss to combine. Drizzle olive oil mixture over the tomatoes and toss again. Garnish with Parmesan cheese. Serve immediately or chill.

* If using tiny tomatoes such as currant tomatoes, leave whole.

• One avocado contains a hefty 300 calories and 30 grams of fat. But, most of the fat in an avocado is mono-unsaturated, the same hearty-friendly fat found in olive oil and nuts. Avocados also contain another beneficial substance: a plant sterol called beta-sitosterol, which researchers have found can reduce LDL (bad) cholesterol in your bloodstream. So, there may be good reason to have some guacamole and add avocados to your meals - in moderation of course.
  

• In 1997, Americans spent more than $54 billion on soft drinks, according to Michael Jacobson, founder of the Center for Science in the Public Interest. Every drop was a missed opportunity to drink low-fat milk, orange juice or another beverage that could help cut the risk of osteoporosis, heart disease, stroke and cancer. Jacobson calls soft drinks "liquid candy." A 12 ounce can of cola contains phosphoric acid which contributes to the formation of kidney stones, about 10 teaspoons of sugar and 150 calories. While a large "super-sized" 32 ounce soft drink contains a whopping 310 calories and enough caffeine to equal 1-1/2 cups of coffee. Soft drinks seem to be a big part of our diet and a big health problem.
  

• There is a new egg on the market. The new "super egg" comes from chickens fed a diet fortified with flaxseed, vitamin E and fish oils. The result is eggs with increased nutritional value. They are pricey though, costing about a dollar more per dozen. Does this mean the chicken is healthier too? Maybe we should eat the hen and still skip the eggs? Huh?