Tomatoes are one of the more popular vegetables for the backyard garden. Gardeners grow various types of tomatoes, ranging from a few plants in patio planters to several dozen in large garden plots. Regardless of how many or what kind, there are some common problems tomatoes may develop during the season.

There's nothing worse than going to pick that first big ripe tomato on the vine only to find the bottom half is rotten! This is due to blossom end rot, which tends to show up every summer with varying severity. Blossom end rot is due to a lack of calcium as the fruit develops, which in turn is usually due to fluctuating soil moisture as the fruit develops.

Mulching the soil and watering as needed during dry spells that may occur should keep the problem in check. Monitor the soil conditions closely through the summer when fruit is developing on the tomato plants.

Leaf diseases can also occur on tomatoes. Septoria leaf spot and early blight are two examples. Typically leaves on the lower branches are affected. Dark brown or blackish spots will appear, followed by yellowing or browning of the leaves. The disease may progress up the plant, especially during wet weather conditions.

Mulching can help reduce soil splash onto the plant, which can reduce leaf diseases. Caged or staked tomatoes will have better air circulation, which may reduce disease.

Remove infected leaves as soon as they are noticed to help reduce spread. Remove infected plants at the end of the season and also practice a three year crop rotation. Some varieties offer tolerance of early blight.

Fungicides can also provide some protection, but need to be used weekly. Look for fungicides labeled for vegetable crops that contain chlorothalonil, copper or maneb.

Finally, large green tomato hornworms may eat considerable amounts of foliage off tomato plants. These can be picked off by hand. Insecticides such as carbaryl (Sevin) or Bacillus thuringiensis kurstake (Dipel, Caterpillar Attack, etc.) could also be used. Oftentimes the damage is noticed before the large caterpillar is found.

Source: Bruce Spangenberg, Extension Educator, Horticulture, University of Illinois Extension

Cutting flowers from a home garden and arranging them attractively doesn't require the skills of Martha Stewart, but the picking is easier if gardeners remember a few tips.

When you walk in the garden to cut blooms, the stems should be placed immediately in water, a process called conditioning. Flowers that have been conditioned in water look fresher and last longer in arrangements.

Carry a bucket partially filled with lukewarm water to put flowers in as they are cut. Choose flowers with longer stems, so they can be re-cut later to fit an arrangement. Use sharp shears. Make the cut above a bud to ensure new growth and more flowers.

The best time to cut flowers? In the early morning just as the dew is drying or in the evening. Never cut flowers during hot temperatures, particularly in the afternoon. Cut only the most perfect blooms. Observe the garden to see when the flowers reach their most beautiful stage. That is the time to cut and it will vary from one flower to another.

Cut cluster flowers (such as delphinium, foxglove or lilac) before all the flowers are open. Other flower types, such as sunflowers or zinnias, must be fully open before cutting.

Cut flowers should be arranged loosely to allow air to circulate and water should be lukewarm during conditioning for most flower varieties. Keep the flowers in the water at room temperature for several hours or overnight. You can use a flower preservative in the water. They make flowers last longer by maintaining the acidity level at a pH between 3.5 and 5.

To prepare cut flowers for arrangements, first remove most of the leaves. They will rot and foul the water and stems will look better.

Then, double check what lengths you want and re-cut the stems underwater. Cutting underwater will eliminate bubbles that can prevent stems from taking up moisture. Stems are cut on a slant so they can take in the most amount of water available when resting on the bottom of a vase or container.

To make an arrangement last as long as possible, cut stems and change the water and preservative every day. Keep the flowers out of direct sunlight and store them in a cool spot overnight. Put them out on the porch where the temperature is cool and the humidity is high.

Special Conditioning Pointers

Milky sap flowers - (asclepias, poppies, poinsettias): To prevent sticky sap from blocking water uptake, place the stem in boiling water for 10 seconds or hold it over a candle flame to sear the end.

Woody stems - (lilacs, butterfly bush, mock orange, rhododendrons): Split the stems with shears to allow more moisture to be absorbed. Be careful not to crush the stem.

Foliage - Ornamental leaves are best conditioned standing upright, like flowers.

When to Cut

Fully Open: Calendula, black-eyed Susan, gaillardia, dahlia, zinnia.

Half to fully open: Anemone, azalea, bachelor's button, bee balm, daisy, daylily, delphinium, lilac.

Others: Bleeding heart (four or five florets open), daffodil (as color shows in bud), gladiolus (one to five buds showing color), iris (as first bud opens), poppy (night before opening) and tulip (from bud to half open). Roses should be cut as the second petal unfurls above a five petal leaf.

Source: Penn State

I have great respect for trees. They have a tenacity to continue to live and even thrive under less than ideal conditions. They suffer the slings and arrows of outrageous people - baseball bats, garage sale flyers and the occasional misguided car. Trees also have their share of diseases. Fortunately some are not as serious as they appear.

Each year we see some spotting and browning of leaves, buds and sometimes stems of ash, maple, oak, elm, walnut and other tree species. Often the cause is a fungal disease called anthracnose. It attacks developing leaves during cool wet weather.

Sycamore have succumbed once again to anthracnose fungal disease. The fungus can kill the first set of leaves so sycamores appear to leaf out late. Fortunately sycamores will produce another set of leaves. Even though sycamores seem to get anthracnose to some degree each year, they continue to thrive.

Anthracnose can also infect ash trees. Often ash trees appear healthy, but not as full of leaves, or it can cause the first set of leaves to drop. To determine if branches have the ability to leaf out again, look for live buds on the twig. Live buds should appear green and plump. Also try scratching the new growth. It should look green and moist. If the buds and branches are dead, the tree may have a more serious problem.

Oaks can also get a fungal disease called oak leaf blister. The leaves are distorted and blister-like growths appear on the leaves. The leaves often appear thickened and almost crisp. Leaves turn downward and inward and may become red or purple. Another oak leaf problem, oak tatters or "bare bones" has also been seen at the plant clinic recently. On the leaves only the veins and a bit of the leaf blade around the veins is present. The edges are often brown or thickened. The leaves appear to have been attacked by zillions of hungry insects. The cause of oak tatters is not certain, but appears to be the result of cold injury when leaves were in bud.

Keep in mind not all problems with trees are caused by infectious diseases or insects. When new leaves are damaged by cold and high wind, they can appear to be suffering from insect damage. With weather-damaged leaves, there is no pattern to the damage and the holes in the leaves are jagged. Leaves with wind damage may also have straight line rips in the tissue. If leaves are damaged while still in the bud, a uniform pattern may appear as they unfurl. Maples often show a great deal of leaf tatter.

Generally the best management option is to promote good tree health; water during drought periods; remove dead or dying branches; and fertilize if necessary in fall. For anthracnose and oak blister, fungicide sprays are not effective once symptoms appear. In addition both diseases are not life threatening. The bottom line is the infected trees will probably outlive us all despite their not-so-perfect leaves.

Source: Sandra Mason, Unit Educator, Horticulture & Environment, University of Illinois Extension.

Spring has come and summer is almost here, and a homeowner's fancy can turn to thoughts of pruning trees, but, don't even think about cutting a branch before hiring a qualified arborist.

When it comes to pruning trees, you often get what you pay for. An honest, fair and experienced arborist may charge a bit more, but in the long run your trees will look better and remain healthier. If you hire someone to trim a tree and it seems like a great deal, it's probably not.

Homeowners should call an arborist if:

• The tree's leaves are discolored, chewed or curled, indicating insect or disease damage.
• The tree has dead wood in the structure.
• There is storm damage, cracks or broken limbs.
• They are planning construction projects and would like to save particular trees.
• Trees are interfering with homes, wires or windows.
• The tree or its roots need to be pruned.

An arborist is a tree specialist trained to work on trees in a proper and safe manner. Most qualified arborists will take out ads in the Yellow Pages of local phone directories or you can call an Extension office and ask for a recommendation.

We recommend hiring arborists who are members of the International Society of Arboriculture (ISA). Many arborists are certified by the ISA. This means the arborist has passed a professional skills test and has at least several years of experience.

When hiring an arborist, the process should be no different than finding contractors for other house related projects. Following is a checklist homeowners should go through before making a decision concerning tree removal or pruning.

• Beware of doorknockers. Unfamiliar work crews or people who approach a house looking for work should never be hired to work on trees. An advertisement in the Yellow Pages tells you the person has some experience and has been a member of the community. Always get a written estimate for any work you want done.

• Ask for proof of insurance. At minimum, tree services should carry liability and workers' compensation insurance. You can be held responsible if uninsured workers are injured on your property.

• Ask for local references. Once a tree professional provides local references, contact the former clients and go inspect the work. Be sure to get bids from two or three arborists and tell each arborist you are contacting other services, so they know there is competition for the job.

• Have a written contract. Any contract should contain: a start and end date; a detailed description of work to be done; a description of cleanup, including ownership of firewood; whether stump grinding is included; and a total cost estimate, including tax.

• Make sure they use correct equipment. Certified arborists never wear climbing spikes to prune trees. They should use ropes, rope harnesses or a truck equipped with an extendable bucket.

• Don't be fooled by a good deal. Homeowners should never be rushed into making a decision. Most arborists prefer to schedule work well in advance, unless the tree is an immediate hazard. Never pay in advance. Also be wary of anyone who seems eager to remove a living tree, unless it poses a hazard.

Most experts say the best time to prune is when trees are dormant in late fall and through the winter. Deciduous trees can be pruned in mid to late summer, after leaves have formed and hardened. You may be able to get a better price if you schedule in advance. You also can get together with neighbors to offer a larger job to bidding tree services.

Source: Penn State

A cracked, crooked or uneven sidewalk often is a sign of problems caused by tree roots. The real root of the problem, however, is poor planning before the tree is planted.

Urban areas usually need sidewalks six feet wide for safe pedestrian traffic. Placing a tree that can co-exist with a sidewalk can be challenging and homeowners should know when to plant and when to walk away.

Soil Space

All trees require enough space to spread roots and receive oxygen and water. If the soil area is 2 feet wide or less, do not plant a tree at all. Turfgrass is easier to maintain and grow in such a narrow space.

For areas 2 to 4 feet wide, plant a tree that reaches 20 feet or less at maturity. For soil spaces 4 to 6 feet wide, plant trees maturing at 40 feet or less. If there is 6 feet of soil space, trees larger than 40 feet can be used.

Large trees need room for limbs to grow, at least 20 feet from the central trunk. Make sure there is enough space that limbs do not interfere with buildings or power lines.

Trees Planted in the Wrong Space

When a mature tree is growing into the edge of a sidewalk, cutting into roots is unsafe and unhealthy for the tree. When a root is cut, it can kill limbs in the crown. If an anchor or buttress root is cut, the tree can weaken so severely that it falls over.

Cut space in the sidewalk to allow more room for tree growth. To estimate how much concrete to cut, homeowners should look at other trees along the street or in the neighborhood. Estimate how much the trunk will grow in the next ten years – say, three inches. Then remove six inches of concrete. Even if the tree grows into the space you have created, you gain the use of the tree and the sidewalk for 10 more years.

When Good Roots Go Bad

If root growth has raised the sidewalk there are some temporary solutions. If the sidewalk is raised at a joint, homeowners can patch in a small ramp of concrete to prevent missteps and even out the surface. Concrete patches should be used only if the section is raised less than an inch. The repair should last for at least two years.

For roots that are causing gaps of more than an inch you can cut the sidewalk along either side of the root. Then, place expansion joint material along each edge and replace with new concrete, asphalt or any other material community codes allow. As the root grows, the replacement strip will continue to rise, but the smaller section can be replaced easily every few years because of the expansion joints.

Allow three inches on each side because the root will continue to grow in diameter. If you must cut a root, cut it cleanly. However, you should think long and hard about cutting a living root.

In general, plant a tree at least three feet away from any walkway, street or patio. To grow a healthy tree, make sure the soil is at least two feet deep. That allows enough space for the soil to store water during dry periods.

Source: Penn State University

July

• Irrigation (as needed or allow lawn to go dormant)
• Monitoring for pest/problems (sod webworm)

August

• Monitor for pests (annual white grubs mid-August through September) (Sod webworm)
• Irrigation (as needed)
• Prepare for seeding, overseeding (optimum time)
• Seeding - latter half of month (optimum time)

Garden Calendar

Check out things to do in your garden during July.
http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/gardencal/index.html

Mayor Daley's 2000 Landscape Awards Program "Urbs in Horto"

Call 312-744-8691 for more information and an application on this awards program. Deadline to enter is July 15, 2000.

Greenet Planting with Pride Garden Contest

This contest is sponsored by the Chicago Greening Network. For more information and an application call 773-316-5104. Deadline to enter is July 14, 2000.

Dutch Elm Disease

Many homeowners who have mature elms in their landscapes do not realize that Dutch elm disease is still prevalent in Illinois and in the Midwest. The fact that a tree was not killed by the epidemic of this disease in the 1950s does not mean it is resistant. It is far more likely that the tree escaped infection. We have many (100+) confirmed cases of Dutch elm disease at the Plant Clinic each year. The Morton Arboretum in the Chicago area has confirmed positive cases. Private tree care companies in Chicago have also confirmed positive cases of Dutch elm disease.

Dutch elm disease (DED) is caused by a fungal pathogen, Ceratocystis ulmi. The fungus works much like the other vascular pathogens causing plugging of the vascular tissues and resultant wilting and death of foliage. American elms are very susceptible to this pathogen. Although Chinese elm and Siberian elm are known to be more resistant, infection of these species can occur as well. Work is still under way to develop resistant elms. So far, work has produced the more resistant Sapporo Autumn Gold, American Liberty and Urban elms.

Watch for yellowing of the leaves in the elm, followed by wilting and browning. Often this happens so quickly that the problem is first noticed when branches with brown leaves appear in the canopy "overnight." A single branch will usually show symptoms first (called flagging), with rather rapid spread to adjacent branches and the entire tree.

For more information on DED, including control procedure, call us at 773-233-0476 for a factsheet. It is generally too late to save a tree once it is infected, but an accurate diagnosis of the problem may help save nearby elm trees.

Source: Nancy Pataky, University of Illinois

White Spots on Oak Leaves

Oak leaves in Illinois are showing small, irregular white spots. These are generally caused by piercing - sucking insects living on the leaf underside and removing the sap, including the green chlorophyll, from groups of cells. The genus, Erythroneura contains many species of small leafhoppers that specialize on oaks. Adults are barely 1/8 inch long, are wedge-shaped and fly readily. Many species are green, but others are whitish. They may have red or other colored markings on the back. The nymphs are also greenish or whitish, depending on the species, are wingless and are smaller than the adult. Both nymphs and adults move sideways, typically crawling to the opposite side of the leaf or stem when disturbed.

Lacebugs are also numerous on oak and cause white spots by sucking the sap out of the leaves. Adults are about 1/8 inch long and blackish. Their lacelike, white wings have brown markings and lie flat across the back. The nymphs are blackish and smaller. Lacewing eggs are tiny, black and laid in small, loose clusters on the leaf underside. Both nymphs and adults produce black, tar-like spots of feces that are very obvious on the leaf underside. In fact, if a leaf has white spots above and black spots underneath, the damage was almost certainly caused by lacebugs. If there are white spots above and no spots underneath, leafhoppers are probably to blame.

Oak skeletonizer window feeds on oak. Small, light-colored caterpillars eat through the lower leaf surface but leave the upper surface intact. These areas are whitish because the green tissue underneath has been removed. None of these insects normally cause enough damage to warrant control, but knowing what caused the damage is reassuring to the client.

Source: Philip Nixon, Entomologist, University of Illinois

Keeping Squirrels Out of the House

You may find yourself sharing the upper spaces of your home with unwanted visitors - like squirrels seeking warmth or just looking for a nice place to set up house, so you might want to take preventative measures to keep these critters out.

Trim tree limbs 6 to 8 feet away from buildings to keep squirrels from jumping onto your roof. You'll also need to close up any holes in your attic, soffit and fascia. To do this, place one-half inch wire mesh over any small openings.

If a squirrel does find its way into your home, you can make a one-way door over its entrance, allowing the squirrel to get out, but not back in, however, the best way to remove them is live trapping. A wildlife pest control operator can do the job or you can buy live traps and do it yourself. Orange and apple slices make good bait. Check the traps at least twice daily; then release the trapped squirrels into a wooded area.

Source: Penn State University

July-Edible

Control blossom end rot on tomatoes. Factsheet available.

Mulches help to control blossom end rot on tomatoes. Factsheet on mulches available.

Take the family to one of our local county fairs:

• Champaign County Fair - July 21 - July 29 - 217-367-8461
• DuPage County Fair - July 26 - July 31 - 630-688-6636
• Kane County Fair - July 18 - July 23 - Fairgrounds 630-584-6926
• Lake County Fair - July 25 - July 30 - Fairgrounds 847-223-2204
• Porter County Fair (Valparaiso, IN) - July 21 - July 29

Stop in at one of Chicago's many Farmers' Markets. Call 312-744-9187 for a schedule.

July - Ornamental

Check your plants at night with a flashlight for any night feeding insects.

Remove old flowers of perennials. Factsheet available.

Stake tall plants like dahlias and delphiniums.

Enjoy roses indoors by cutting them in the A.M. just above a five leaflet leaf.

Do not plant shrubs. Wait until fall and cooler temperatures.

Established trees need the equivalent of one inch of water per week.

Plant autumn crocus and Resurrection lilies.

Watch for grubs. Factsheet available.

Avoid using Japanese beetle traps. Traps will attract beetles from other areas, but many beetles are not attracted into the trap.

Watch for snails and slugs. Factsheet available.

Control peony leaf spots. Factsheet available.

Mow grass at a three inches height as weather warms. Lawns mowed at higher heights have deeper roots, less weeds and look better.

Watch for white pine needles, yellowing or browning. Factsheet available.

Do not water during warmest part of day. It could result in a major loss of water due to evaporation. Water in the morning.

July -Indoor

Protect houseplants from strong sunlight. Can cause foliage burn.

Monitor houseplants outdoors. Watch for insects.

August - Edible

Control tomato leafspots. Factsheet available.

Control tomato wilt diseases. Factsheet available.

Try sowing a crop of rye, rye grass or oats in unused garden areas for a green manure crop. Factsheet available.

Harvest your herbs and hang them in a dark, well ventilated location. Dried herbs should be stored in an air tight container. Preserving & harvesting herbs factsheet available.

Brown areas in your lawn may indicate white grub damage. Check your lawn for browned areas that can be lifted like a rug. Factsheet available.

Plan a family outing to one of the following county fairs:

• Kankakee County Fair - August 2 - August 6 - Fairgrounds 815-932-6714
• Kendall County Fair - August 4 - August 6 - Fairgrounds 630-553-2860
• McHenry County Fair - August 2 - August 6 - Fairgrounds 708-258-6592
• Will County Fair - August 23 - August 27 - Fairgrounds 708-258-6592
• Lake County Indiana Fair (Crown Point, IN) - August 4 - August 13 - 219-663-3617
• Illinois State Fair - August 11 - August 20 217-782-6661

August - Ornamental

Allow lily stems to die down naturally and cut off a few inches above the ground.

Plant shrub roses.

Fertilize hybrid teas around August 1; no later or new growth may not survive the winter.

Early fall color in trees is a sign of trouble.

Control wasps & bees. Factsheet available.

Control bagworms with Dipel or Thuricide. Factsheet available.

Finding sawdust at the base of tree? Control carpenter ants. Factsheet available.

Allow lawn clippings to filter back down in lawn. Clippings contain 75 to 80 percent water.

Did you know that a study at the University of Illinois showed mulching mowers did not provide any additional benefit over conventional mowers?

Reseed your lawn in late August. Factsheet available.

August - Indoor

Water houseplants with water at room temperature.

Keep houseplants away from cold drafts from air conditioning units.

Each month new produce will come in season at your local farmers market or roadside stand. Try new and different varieties of vegetables and get a whole new outlook on plant based meal planning. Listed below are available in season produce for Illinois and Indiana for the month of July.

Illinois Fresh & In Season

Vegetables

Beets	Green Peas
Brussels Sprouts	Snap Beans
Cabbage	Summer Squash
Carrots	Sweet Corn
Onions (green)	Sweet Peppers
Eggplant	Tomatoes

Fruits

Blackberries	Honeydew melon
Blueberries	Watermelon
Raspberries

Corn, Tomato, and Black Bean Salad

Use fresh corn if at all possible, frozen or canned corn will not be as flavorful. Allow fresh corn to brown slightly or brown corn on the grill then remove from the cob for an added dimension in flavor.

2 Tablespoons olive oil
2 cups fresh corn kernels (about 4 ears)
2 medium tomatoes, seeded and chopped
1 can (15 oz.) black beans, rinsed and drained
2 scallions, chopped, green tops included
2 Tablespoons chopped green chilies, fresh or canned
Juice of one lime
4 Tablespoons fresh cilantro, chopped
1/2 teaspoon salt or to taste
1 clove garlic, pressed or minced
1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper or to taste

1. Heat olive oil in a nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add corn and cook, stirring constantly, 4 to 5 minutes or until lightly golden.
2. Place corn in a medium bowl, add remaining ingredients. Toss. Chill or serve at room temperature.

Makes approximately 4 cups.

If you like to make your own herb/garlic flavored oil mixtures, be aware of possible dangers if you do not use the latest safety recommendations. Commercially prepared concoctions contain additives like phosphoric acid or citric acid that prevent bacteria from growing. If you make flavored oil at home, keep it refrigerated and discard if not used within 10 days (updated 10/04).

Herbs and oils are both low-acid (pH<4.6) and can support the growth of the pathogenic C. botulinum bacteria. These bacteria, under the right conditions, produce a toxin that causes the extremely serious illness, botulism, in people who eat the tiniest amount of the toxin. Botulism is fatal in about 30 to 35 percent of cases.

Avoid making flavored oil that is potentially dangerous. Ideal conditions for the unwanted growth of C. botulinum include low acid environment (usually pH>4.6), anaerobic (oil provides an anaerobic environment), with enough available water and room temperatures.

These bacteria are found very commonly in soil, water and air. Surrounding these low-acid foods with oil creates an oxygen-free environment (anaerobic) that is perfect for the growth of the bacteria and formation of its toxin (poison). The safe and recommended method for making flavored oil follows:

Herb Flavored Oil - Cold Infusion Method

Choose very fresh herbs and a high quality oil with a neutral or mild taste. A typical recipe calls for one cup fresh herbs. Use your favorite herb or herb combination. Use a mild herb with a strong flavor for best results (rosemary and thyme) or use a single herb.

1-2 cups green herbs
1 cup oil (olive oil, walnut oil, etc.)

1. In a large 5 quart Dutch oven or blanching pot, bring 2 quarts water to a rolling boil.
2. Add herbs and push under boiling water with a long handled spoon.
3. Return water to a boil and blanch herbs, covered, for 5 minutes.
4. Meanwhile, prepare an ice water bath. After 5 minutes, remove herbs from boiling water using a strainer or slotted spoon. Drain slightly.
5. Immediately plunge herbs into ice water for 5 minutes. Drain well and squeeze out all excess water.
6. Place herbs in a blender and add oil. Puree until smooth.
7. Strain immediately through a fine-mesh strainer. Strain again through several layers of cheesecloth.
8. Cover tightly and refrigerate; use within 10 days. Updated October 2004.

August is the hottest month of the year in Chicago. In recent years temperatures have soared to record setting degrees, sending Chicagoans scrambling for public air-conditioned facilities and the lakefront to catch a cool breeze. Yet some people are sun seekers. Sick of hearing how we should protect ourselves from the sun's harmful rays to prevent wrinkling and the risk of skin cancer, many ignore the warnings, oil-up, and head for a place in the sun.

Fact is, the science of sun protection is constantly evolving. Whether you are washing your car, gardening or picnicking in the park, too much sun and heat can be a health risk, especially in the intense afternoon August sun in the Chicagoland area.

Sunscreens

Sunscreen is a product lotion, cream or ointment. When it is applied to the skin, it absorbs, reflects or scatters some or all of the sun's rays. A sunscreen can reduce the chance of sunburn. It can also protect your skin from premature aging and cell damage leading to skin cancer. The sun peaks between 10 am and 2 pm every day. You need protection even on cloudy and foggy days.

Select a sunscreen with SPF (sun protection factor) 15 or above. A product designed for broad spectrum coverage shields against UVA and UVB rays. How long does protection last? How much sunscreen should one apply?

Apply sunscreen 20 to 30 minutes before going out into the sunshine. The compounds need time to bind to proteins in the skin to become effective. Reapply at least every four hours. No sunscreen is waterproof, so apply every two hours when swimming or sweating. Don't forget your lips. Be careful not to get any in your eyes.

Sunglasses

What do movie stars and Chicago blues musicians have in common? They love to wear dark glasses - day and night. Not just for eye protection, but because it is so "cool." Jackie Onassis and Audrey Hepburn made large round sunglasses quite fashionable in the 60's, and they are even more popular today. Protecting your eyes is not only healthy, but it is chic.

When selecting a pair of sunglasses, don't let chic go to your head. Put protection first. Expensive designer glasses can actually fit your wardrobe and protect your eyes and the delicate skin around your eyes if you know what to look for.

• Sunglasses should be shields against harmful rays. To find a pair that fits this criteria, you'll need to read the label. Look for lenses that offer 100% UV (ultraviolet) protection or UV protection up to 400 NM. NM stands for nanometer, which is a unit used to measure ultraviolet light.

• Big sunglasses are better. Try on several pairs and check yourself in the mirror. Select a pair that covers your eyebrows, extends to the outer corners of your eyes and cover the area below your eyes for maximum coverage. Your sunglasses should feel balanced, and they should fit snugly and comfortably on the bridge of your nose.

Heat exhaustion and heat stroke

Know the warning signs. Do you know when you have had too much heat and sun? Do you know how to cool down? Heat exhaustion results when your heart, circulatory system and central nervous system fail to respond to high external temperatures.

In the early stages of heat exhaustion, you may experience nausea, vomiting and muscle aches. Heat exhaustion can quickly progress to heat stroke - when the body temperature exceeds 102 degrees. Heatstroke is a life threatening condition. Even a few minutes of high body temperatures can lead to liver damage, kidney damage and/or severe brain damage. Heat exhaustion often occurs in elderly people taking medication for hypertension (diuretics - which are often called "water pills") if overcome by high heat and humidity.

Emergency treatment

• Get the person out of the sun into a cool, shady place.
• Lay the person down and elevate feet slightly (6 to 8 inches).
• Loosen or remove most or all of the clothing.
• Give cold (not iced) water to sip.
• Call for emergency assistance if necessary.

Dehydration - Hit the bottle!

Bottled water is available everywhere you look. It is a good idea to take a bottle of water with you any time you leave the house. Some of us walk around in a semi-dehydrated state most of the time. Summer is no time to become dehydrated. Lack of fluids can leave you feeling weak, fatigued and at risk of heat stroke.

Although iced coffee, iced tea and pop can be quite refreshing on a hot summer's day, most contain caffeine, which is a diuretic. Diuretics are substances that increase the loss of water from the body through frequent urination. Make sure you drink plenty of water too. Water Works!

The Soy Health Claim

In October 1999, the Food & Drug Administration (FDA) approved a health claim that can be used on food labels of soy-based foods to tout their heart-healthy benefits. The agency reviewed research from 27 studies that showed soy protein's value in lowering levels of total cholesterol and low-density lipoprotein (LDL, or "bad" cholesterol).

Food marketers can now use the following claim, or a reasonable variation, on their products: "Diets low in saturated fat and cholesterol that include 25 grams of soy protein a day may reduce the risk of heart disease. One serving of (name of food) provides grams of soy protein." To qualify for the claim foods must contain per serving:

• 6.25 grams of soy protein
• low fat (less than 3 grams)
• low saturated fat (less than 1 gram)
• low cholesterol (less than 20 milligrams)
• sodium value of less than 480 milligrams for individual foods, less than 720 milligrams if considered a main dish and less than 960 milligrams if considered a meal.

Foods made with the whole soybean, such as tofu, may qualify for the claim if they have no fat other than that naturally present in the whole bean.

Source: FDA Consumer: Vol. 34, No. 3

Home Repair Fraud

Every year thousands of people in Chicago fall victim to home repair fraud. Home repair con artists drive through residential neighborhoods looking for the next pigeon and setup job. No matter how good the deal sounds, follow these steps before giving your money to anyone.

• Get at least three (3) bids before making a decision on which contractor to hire.
• Ask for references and check them before hiring anyone.
• Hire only contractors with valid home repair licenses. To verify a license, call the Department of Consumer Services at (312) 744-9400.
• Never do home repair business with door to door salesmen or anyone you did not contact first.
• Secure a written contract or agreement. Identify exactly what will be done and who will obtain the building permits if needed.
• Never pay the full amount until all work and cleanup is done to your satisfaction. It is customary to pay 1/2 to 1/3 down and the balance upon completion of the job.
• Amend the written contract if the project changes after the work begins.
• If you feel you have been ripped off and work has not been done to your satisfaction, take it up in small claims court. The judge just may agree with you.

Dietary Guidelines for Americans

The new version of the dietary guidelines, which are released every five years by the U. S. Department of Agriculture and Health and Human Services, have two new additions. Added to the list is a guideline solely on food safety and another that focuses on physical activity.

Moderate exercise for at least 30 minutes a day for adults and 60 minutes for children is the new recommendation. Realizing that adults have busy work schedules and often do not have time to get to a gym, USDA officials said that just a brisk 30 minute walk in the neighborhood during the evening would meet guideline recommendations.

Saccharin is Back

Saccharin has been listed as a cancer causing agent since 1981 when it was discovered that rats developed bladder tumors after consuming large doses of the artificial sweetener. Now, federal officials say that the bladder tumors in rats do not apply to humans.

Some consumer groups have criticized the de-listing as premature. The Public Citizen Health Research Group and the Center for Science in the Public Interest, both oppose removing saccharin from the list of cancer-causing agents, saying that no human studies have been conducted since 1980.

Saccharin supporters will probably turn to Congress to remove the warning labels on products containing saccharin. Although saccharin is the oldest artificial sweetener, it is no longer the only choice available to consumers.

...ground beef that is 85 percent lean is 15 percent fat by weight? However, weight is not an indication of calorie content. The same ground beef is about 50 percent fat by calories. That is because fat has many more calories for its weight than the protein in meat. Proving once again that there is no such thing as low calorie or low fat ground beef.

...teenagers are using "liquid food coloring" to dye their contact lenses - yes, contact lenses - funky colors like bright red, royal blue and brilliant orange? The American Optometric Association has issued a warning to teenagers and parents that using food coloring to tint contact lenses could cause eye infections, allergic reactions and may impair vision. "Food coloring, while safe for consumption is not necessarily sterile. Certain dyes and tints, depending on what they are derived from, may cause a reaction like red or irritated eyes in some people," according to Dr. R. L. Davis, Chair of the American Optometric Association Contact Lens Section.

...too much selenium can be harmful? According to information published in the Tufts University Health and Nutrition Letter (Volume 18, No. 4), more is not better. The new recommended dietary allowance for selenium is 55 micrograms. The upper limit of more than 400 micrograms could cause brittleness - as well as loss - of hair and nails. Other reported symptoms of selenium toxicity include GI disturbances, skin rash, irritability and nervous system abnormalities.

...adding oil to pasta cooking does not minimize the pasta's sticking potential during cooking? The key to cooking pasta is plenty of water and stir, stir, stir. How much water is enough? The recommendation is 4 quarts of water per pound of pasta. Without enough water the pieces of pastas will stick together and the cooking water will foam up and boil over. Frequent stirring keeps water circulating between the pieces of pasta.