Browning pine trees and other evergreens have been a common sight throughout northern Illinois this spring. Much of the browning can be attributed to dry conditions since last fall. Pines, in particular white pines, have been under stress for some time, however.

Decline of white pine has been a common problem for the past few years. Many samples have been submitted to the University of Illinois Plant Clinic in Urbana. Laboratory culturing at the clinic has not found fungal disease pathogens as the cause. Few live roots have been found on the samples and this root decline may be due to several factors. Heat, drought, flooding and extremes in temperature and moisture are all possible causes of white pine root decline.

Site stress has also likely been involved in the decline of these trees. White pines planted on clay soils in exposed areas, such as a windbreak situation, often have problems. In some areas, heavy spring rains over the past years have saturated soils, which depletes oxygen. As a result, roots decline and die. Alkaline (high pH) soils can also stress white pines.

Dry soil conditions over winter combined with wind draw more moisture out of evergreens. In the case of white pines, if the tree already has limited roots, it will have a hard time replacing water lost from needles.

Mulching over the root zones can help retain moisture. Watering can also benefit when conditions are dry. But limited root systems may mean the decline continues, even if soil moisture is improved.

Keep in mind pines will produce new candle growth from terminal buds later this spring. In some cases, a pine that looks brown now may look much better by June when the new green growth emerges and helps mask the brown. Take a wait and see approach on pines; do not go out and prune them now, as the terminal buds will be removed and no new growth will occur on that branch.

Certainly other problems can affect pines, but this white pine problem is very common at the present time. If brown needles only show on one side of a pine facing a roadway, salt injury is a likely cause. Brown branches scattered throughout a tree could be problems such as fungal tip blight, insect damage or perhaps even mechanical damage. If a Scots or Austrian pine suddenly dies, it could be pine wilt caused by pinewood nematode.

Source: Bruce Spangenberg, Extension Educator, Horticulture
University of Illinois Extension

The tomato is the most popular garden vegetable in the United States. Tomatoes are fairly easy to grow but are susceptible to a number of problems. During the summer we receive many questions about tomato problems. The following are the most frequently asked.

Q. What causes the lower leaves of my tomato plants to roll up?

A. Leaf roll (curling of the leaflets) is a physiological condition that occurs most commonly when plants are trained and pruned. It should not affect fruiting or quality.

Q. What causes the flowers to drop off my tomato plants?

A. During unfavorable weather (night temperatures lower than 55°F or day temperatures above 95°F with drying hot winds), tomatoes do not set and flowers drop. The problem usually disappears as the weather improves.

Q. What can I do to prevent my tomatoes from cracking?

A. Cracking varies with the variety. Many of the newer varieties are resistant to cracking. Severe pruning increases cracking. Keep soil moisture uniform as the tomatoes develop and plant resistant varieties to minimize this problem.

Q. What causes small irregular, cloudy white spots just under the skin of my tomatoes?

A. These spots on green or ripe fruits are caused by the feeding of stink bugs.

Q. What causes the young leaves of my plants to become pointed and irregular in shape? I noticed some twisting of the leaves and stems after spraying the plants for the first time.

A. Judging from the description, it seems likely that your tomato plants have been injured by 2, 4-D or a similar growth-regulator weed killer. Never use the same sprayer in your vegetable garden that you use for weed control in your lawn. Drift from herbicides originating 1/2 mile or more away also can injure your tomato plants. For this reason, use extreme caution when applying lawn-care chemicals near vegetable or fruit plantings.

Q. What is a tree tomato?

A. The treelike plant sold as a "tree tomato," Cyphomandra betacea, is a different species from garden tomatoes. It is a woody tree that grows 8 feet or taller and bears after 2 years. The tree tomato is a tropical plant and does not overwinter outside anywhere the temperature drops below freezing. The fruits are small (1 to 2 inches in diameter) and are used primarily in stews or preserves rather than in salads. Some of the common, vigorous, indeterminate garden tomato varieties that are suitable for training and pruning (such as Ponderosa) are also sold as climbing or "tree tomatoes" by some seed stores.

Q. What is a "potomato?"

A. Although both potato and tomato plants can be intergrafted, the "potomato" (sometimes called "topato") commonly advertised is simply a tomato seed inserted into a potato tuber and planted together, producing both a tomato plant and a potato plant in the same hill. The results are not likely to be particularly successful.

Q. My grandpa grew a heart-shaped, dark pink tomato that was thick and meaty, yet juicy with great flavor. Grandpa's gone and I can't find a source for the seed. What can I do?

A. Fortunately, there are a number of seed exchanges like Seed Savers Exchange, RR #3, Box 239, Decorah, IA 52101, which have been finding and rescuing old varieties. More old and heirloom varieties are also available from conventional seed sources these days. Perhaps, by doing some homework and contacting one or several of these sources, you can find a variety that is exactly (or very nearly) like those you remember from your grandfather's garden. As a guess, the variety sounds like one called Oxheart, which used to be fairly commonly offered and has recently become rare.

Q. Should you top plants late in the season?

A. You can remove the tips of tomato plants in late August since fruits that set after that time are not likely to ripen before frost.

Q. How do you save tomato seeds?

A. To save seeds, squeeze seeds and juice from fully ripe fruits into a container (do not add water) and let it ferment in a warm place for 2 to 3 days. Then rinse, dry, separate the seeds and store them in a tight container in a cold, dry place. Do not save seeds of hybrid cultivars since they do not breed true.

Q. What are determinate and indeterminate plants?

A. Several of the newer tomato cultivars are determinate (stop elongating early) because the main stem ends in a flower cluster after about four to five clusters. Fruit of determinate cultivars tend to ripen all at one time. They are good to grow when you need large quantities at one time - such as for processing. Plants of other cultivars are indeterminate (continue to elongate), with the flower clusters giving way to continued extension of the stems. Their fruits ripen throughout the summer. These cultivars are good to grow for fresh use. Determinate cultivars include 'Springset,' 'Spring Giant,' 'Small Fry,' 'Campbell 1327,' and 'Heinz 1350.' Indeterminate cultivars include 'Early Girl,' 'Terrific,' 'Jet Star,' 'Better Boy,' 'Big Boy,' and 'Beefmaster.'

Q. What are the best varieties for tomato paste?

A. Tomato fruits with high solids and mild flavor - such as those from 'Roma' and 'San Marzana' - are often used for making paste, ketchup and sauce.

Lots of different kinds of flowering plants are suitable for a cutting garden. Long-stemmed annuals or perennials are most useful. Typically, colorful annual flowers dominate these gardens because they are such enthusiastic bloomers. Cutting their blossoms only encourages them to produce more. All kinds of daisies are enormously popular and combine well with lots of other flowers.

Long blooming perennials have a place in the cutting garden as well as in the more formal flower border. Plants such as coral bells and fringed bleeding heart will produce flowers all season, especially if they are regularly picked. Some, such as purple coneflowers and black-eyed susans produce bold, bristly seedheads that are ideal for floral crafts. Of course perennials can be depended upon to bloom next season - no need to replant that part of the cutting garden.

Don't forget foliage plants that contribute texture and color to both fresh and dried arrangements. Silver-leafed artemisia varieties, lamb's ears and herbs such as lavender contribute grayish-silver foliage that is both handsome and aromatic.

The following is a list of suggested annuals, perennials and foliage plants. This list is just a beginning. There are certainly more cut flowers available.

Annuals for a cutting garden (* indicates good for drying also)

Ageratum (Floss Flower) Amaranthus caudatus (Love Lies Bleeding) Ammi majus (Bishop's Flower) Anemone Bells of Ireland Calendula Callisstephus chinesis (China Aster) Campanula Celosia, cristate (Cockscomb)* Celosia, plumosa (Feather)* Celosia, spicata (Wheat)* Centaurea (Bachelors' Button) Cleome (Spider Flower) Cosmos Dianthus Dill Dimorphoteca sinuata (Cape Marigold) Eustoma (Lisianthus) Geranium Gomphrena (Globe Amaranth)*	Gypsophila (Baby's Breath)* Helichrysum (Strawflower) Helipeterium (Everlasting) Marigold Matthiola (Stock) Nicotianai Nigella damascena (Love-In-A- Mist) Pansy Petunia Phlox Reseda Odorata (Mignonette) Salpiglossis Salvia farinacea Scabiosa (Pincushion flower) Snapdragon Statice* Sunflower* Sweet Pea Verbena bonariensis Zinnia

Perennials for a cutting garden

Achillea (Yarrow)* Aster Campanula Carnation Chrysanthemum, such as Shasta Daisy Coreopsis Delphinium Dianthus, deltoids (Pinks) Digitalis (Foxglove) Echinacea (Purple Coneflower) Echinops exaltatus (Globe Thistle)* Gypsophila (Baby's Breath)*	Heuchera (Coral Bells) Kniphofia (Red Hot Poker) Lavender* Lobelia Lupine Nicotiana (Flowering Tobacco) Phlox Poppy, Shirley or Iceland Rudbeckia (Black-Eyed Susan) Sages Solidago (Goldenrod) Veronica

Foliage for a cutting garden

Asparagus, densiflorus Asparagus, sprengeri Coleus Dusty Miller Eucalyptus	Euphorbia (Snow on the Mountain) Flowering Cabbage Flowering Kale Sage, Tri-color

Liz Ball, author
Source: National Garden Bureau, April 2000

Cucumber beetles are a major vegetable pest. Growing cucumbers or melons in your garden? The cucumber beetle is an annual insect pest to be concerned about. This small insect can cause considerable damage.

There are two reasons cucumber beetles spell trouble for certain vegetable plants. The first way is by direct consumption of leaves – a visible condition that is especially a problem when plants are small. Even more damaging, however, is the fact cucumber beetles can carry bacterial wilt disease, a serious problem of cucumber, muskmelon and watermelon. Infected plants suddenly wilt and die after the beetles have been feeding.

There are two types of cucumber beetles, the spotted and the striped. Both are small beetles, less than 1/4 inch long and yellow-green in color. The striped cucumber beetle is most common in our area and has three black stripes down its back. (The spotted has 12 black spots). Flip it over and and the rear portion of the underside should be black.

If it's yellow, it's the western corn rootworm beetle, not considered a serious pest of cucumbers or melons.

Cucumber beetles start feeding early in the season, often eating plant leaves emerging from the soil. If the beetle is carrying bacterial wilt disease, the plant becomes infected. Symptoms may not show until later into the season, when the vines wilt and die.

As plantings are made in the garden, watch for the cucumber beetle. Control it by applying either carbaryl (Sevin) or rotenone. Reapply at about weekly intervals if beetles are still present.

Once the plants start to bloom, apply late in the day and keep the insecticide off the blooms to avoid contact with bees and other pollinating insects.

Another early season control option is to use a polyester row cover. Put the cover over cucumbers and melons, making sure to seal the edges into the soil. Look carefully around the plants before doing this, however, to assure there are not any cucumber beetles present that could be trapped under the cover! Once the plants start to bloom, the cover needs to be removed so pollinating insects can get to the flowers.

Japanese Beetles

This is the time of year that adult Japanese beetles appear in Illinois. Adult Japanese beetles feed on many deciduous trees, shrubs and vines such as linden, sassafras, Japanese maple, sycamore, Norway maple, birch, elm, Virginia creeper and grape. Their favorite plants are those in the rose family, which includes rose and crab apple. Japanese beetle adults also feed on flowering herbaceous plants such as zinnia, marigold and hollyhock. They generally do not feed on dogwood, forsythia, holly, snowberry or lilac.

Adult Japanese beetles cause plant damage by skeletonizing leaves, removing all leaf tissue between the veins. The leaves then turn brown and fall off. Their feeding damage can reduce a plant's aesthetic quality and subject it to stress. Japanese beetle adults are generally found feeding on plants in groups. They are most active during the warmest parts of the day and prefer feeding on plants that are fully exposed to sunshine. For this reason, adults generally start feeding on the top of plants.

Japanese beetle adults are metallic green, 1/2 inch long, with copper-colored wing covers. Unlike other beetles, they have a series of white hair tufts extruding from the end of the abdomen. Japanese beetles overwinter as larvae (grubs) in the soil, where they feed on plant and turfgrass roots. Adults pupate in late May or early June. They emerge and start feeding from mid to late June with peak densities occurring around July 1. Adults generally stay around until early to mid-August. They are present for approximately 6 weeks, living from 30 to 45 days. After mating, females lay small groups of eggs below the soil surface. Female beetles can lay between 40 to 60 eggs, which hatch into grubs during early August. Grubs feed on plant and turfgrass roots until the arrival of cold weather, which forces them to migrate deeper down in the soil profile. Japanese beetles are annual white grubs and take one year to complete their life cycle.

Insecticides such as carbaryl (Sevin) and cyfluthrin (Tempo) can be used to manage Japanese beetle adult populations when they are actively feeding. These are both contact insecticides so they must be applied when beetles are numerous and exposed in order to obtain maximum control. Because these insecticides generally last only one week, repeat applications may be necessary. Avoid using Japanese beetle traps as they generally attract more beetles and can result in higher levels of plant damage, especially if susceptible plants are present. Monitoring plants that are highly susceptible to Japanese beetles helps minimize potential damage. In addition, planting resistant varieties of roses and crab apples may result in fewer adults feeding and lead to less aesthetic injury to plants.

Source: Bruce Spangenberg, Extension Educator, Horticulture
University of Illinois Extension

About Backyard Bird Houses

The not-for-profit National Bird Feeding Society (P. O. Box 23, Northbrook, IL 60065-0023) maintains a comprehensive guide to feeding backyard birds at www.birdfeeding.org. And its 50,000 members receive a highly informative, well-illustrated bimonthly newsletter, The Bird's Eye reView. (The annual dues are $15.) According to the NBS, the most popular wildlife related recreational activity around the home is wild bird feeding and the Society is determined to spread the word that backyard bird feeding is both fun and helpful to birds year round.

Old-Fashioned Flowers

The latest in the Brooklyn Botanic Garden's "21st Century Gardening Series," this one hundred eleven page softback book includes chapters on classic bulbs, old garden roses, vintage vines, antique annuals, perennials from the past, period flower arrangements and a brief history of houseplants, plus eight pages of sources of old-fashioned ornamental plants, bulbs and seeds. This book (ISBN 1-889538-15-9) is available at many bookstores and garden centers for $9.95 in the U. S. or $12.95 in Canada; it is also available at a discounted price from the BBG online tore at www.bbg.org/gardenemporium.

Bigger Strawberries with Red Plastic Mulch

U. S. Department of Agriculture researcher M. J. Kasperbauer reports that strawberry fruit size is consistently increased by 10 to over 20 percent by using red plastic mulch (sold as "Selective Reflective Mulch" by Ken-Bar, Inc., Reading, Massachusetts) rather than standard black polyethylene mulch. In some cases, the number of fruits produced per plant is also increased when the special red mulch is used. In any case, a significantly enhanced total yield can be expected with the red mulch, which appears to alter growth regulation of strawberry plants so that more energy is shunted to fruit production.

Reference: M. J. Kasperbauer (USDA - Agriculture Research Service, Coastal Plains Soil, Water and Plant Research Center, 2611 W. Lucas St., Florence, SC 29501-1242), "Strawberry Yield Over Red versus Black Plastic Mulch," Crop Science 40 (1),January- February 2000, 171-174. (Crop Science Society of America, 677 S. Segoe Rd., Madison, WI 53711.)

"The Lilac for the South"

According to Mike Schnelle, horticulturist at Oklahoma State University, Stillwater, the cutleaf lilac (Syringa laciniata) is unfortunately underutilized in the South, where it performs exceptionally well. This species thrives in high temperatures; it is suited to Hardiness Zone 8 (as well as all cooler zones up through 4), and should be given full sun. Powdery mildew is less of a problem for the cutleaf lilac than for many other lilac species.

Reference: Mike Schnelle, "Syringa laciniata: Heat-Tolerant Cutleaf is the Lilac for the South," Nursery Management & Production 16 (3), March 2000, 14. (Branch-Smith Publishing, 120 St. Louis Ave., Fort Worth, TX 76104.)

"Cutting Edge" Sharpener for Lawnmower Blades

You could start a business with this one machine: it sharpens a typical lawnmower blade in just one minute or less! For complete information, call the Magna-Matic Corporation at 800-328-1110.

Another Newly Available Highly Disease-Resistant Rose

The Anthony Tesselaar International (phone 800-580-5930 for local retailers) is introducing the Red Flower Carpet® rose (cultivar 'Noare'), which joins Pink, White and Appleblossom Flower Carpet® roses in a line-up that has won 14 international awards for disease-resistance and outstanding overall performance. From the Red Flower Carpet® rose factsheet:

Red Flower Carpet® is a top performing deep red rose, accented by brilliant golden yellow stamens, that blooms in profusion from spring through fall and, like its predecessors, exhibits superlative natural disease resistance.

Red Flower Carpet® has softly ruffled, deep red single flowers that bloom in clusters of 25 to 30 blossoms and lush sprays that gently cascade over the edge of a pot or along the ground. Throughout the season, it continues to look fresh with its glossy, dark green, burgundy-edged leaves unmarred by spent blossoms. The petals fall cleanly away once flowers have bloomed and faded.

Red Flower Carpet® has proven highly resistant to common rose blights such as black spot and mildew. It does not require routine chemical spraying and dusting.

When mature, Red Flower Carpet® is 24 to 32 inches in height and 40 inches across; a nicely shaped compact, upright bush. Plant two to three per square yard for ground cover; plant two to three feet apart to establish boundaries.

In full sun, a well-fed, well-watered, mature bush can produce up to 2,000 flowers per season. In partial shade, still blooms...Will thrive in Hardiness Zones 5-10. Protect over the winter in Zones 6 and below.

Glow-in-the-Dark Trees, for Real ?!?!

We remember old 1950s jokes about radioactive people and pets and even plants that glowed in the dark, but this apparently is no joke. A brief article in the Winter 2000 issue of Hobby Greenhouse (published by the Hobby Greenhouse Association, 8 Glen Terrace, Bedford, MA 01730-2048, phone 781-275-0377) claims that English genetic engineers are attempting to produce Christmas trees that glow without added lights. Such trees would have genes, obtained from other organisms, to produce glowing chemicals. Whether this actually comes to pass or not, we're sure that someone is eager to do it.

June - Edible

In late June stop harvesting asparagus and fertilize.

Harvest peas when pods are plump. After harvesting replant the area.

Keep cucumbers consistently moist to keep them from becoming bitter.

Do not walk through a garden after watering or rain. This can spread disease.

Do not worry about June fruit drop on fruit trees. It is a natural occurrence.

Make a homemade grow bag. Fill a large, heavy-duty, plastic trash bag with a soil mix (Pro-mix) and plant a tomato.

Plant green soybeans. They have a buttery, crunchy flavor. Are a snack food in Japan.Factsheet and seed source available.

Stake tomato plants with 4'-5' stakes.

Plant cucumber varieties 'Spacemaster' and 'Salad Bush' for small gardens or containers.

Plant beans, cucumbers, squash, sweet corn and late tomatoes.

Side-dress eggplants, tomatoes and peppers with fertilizer when they set their first fruit.

Do not slice a tomato until you are ready to eat it. According to USDA research a tomato loses its aroma and flavor just three minutes after slicing.

Mulch tomatoes, peppers and cucumbers. Mulches help keep down weeds and conserve moisture. Different colored mulch materials reflect different wave lengths of light and have produced noticeable results. Tomato harvests increased significantly in both size and quality when plants were grown over red plastic. Gardeners Supply 128 Intervale Road, Burlington, VT 05401, offers red plastic mulch for tomatoes.

Catch earwigs and sowbugs by trapping them in moistened, rolled up newspapers. The earwigs and sowbugs will hide in the paper during the day. Dispose of the newspapers.

Make a vegetable cleaning box. Replace the bottom of a wooden box with chicken wire. Place just picked vegetables in box and rinse off.

Harvest strawberries.

Water the garden with the equivalent of one inch of water per week.

To protect bees that pollinate many of our crop plants, spray pesticides in the evening after bees have returned to their hives.

Make a sunflower room for the kids. Draw a square in the soil and plant sunflowers around the square. Leave an open space for kids to go in their outdoor room.

Prune and tie "staked" tomatoes plants - factsheet available.

Use about 3-4 inches layer of newspaper for a mulch around vegetables. Dip newspaper in a bucket of water before placing on ground so it will not blow around.

Plant pumpkins in early June.

Carve your child's name in the skin of a young pumpkin. Name will expand as pumpkin grows.

Check cucumbers for cucumber beetles. Beetles can cause a bacterial wilt disease. Cover with a floating row cover (Reemay) until they flower.

Grow sweet potatoes. Use the short season variety 'Georgia Jet.'

June - Ornamentals

Pinch back annuals at 4" - 6" high. Helps to promote bushy growth.

For large rose blooms disbud the side shoots from grandifloras and hybrid teas.

When you buy container grown nursery stock, check the root ball and make sure it is not bound too tightly. A mass of circling roots will stay that way even after it is in the ground.

Bug zappers kill more beneficial insects than mosquitoes. They also attract insects.

Do not use peat moss as a mulch. When it dries it becomes impermeable to rain. It's best to mix it with soil.

Climbing roses don't really climb, they have long canes that require support. You'll need to loosely tie the canes to trellises with broad strips of material. Do not use wire, it can damage the cane.

Spray insecticides late in evening to avoid injury to bees.

Grow scented geraniums. They make great air fresheners.

Plant bottle gourds and make a birdhouse. Factsheet available.

Apply mulches to roses, annuals and perennials.

Shrubs and perennials look nice as foundation plantings, but rain may not reach under the eaves, so you may need to water frequently.

Bronze-leaved varieties of begonia do particularly well in full sun. Keep the foliage dry and provide good air circulation around the plants.

Make your own hummingbird food. Boil 4 cups of water and stir in 2 cup of sugar. Cool and fill feeder. Keep leftover food in refrigerator.

Harvest herbs just before flowering. The leaves contain the maximum essential oils. Cut herbs early on a sunny day.

Mulch clematis roots with an organic mulch 4"-6" deep. They like their roots cool.

Trees drop leaves in June. This is normal. Not to worry.

Stake perennials as needed before they become broken or damaged.

For hanging baskets in cool, shady location, use trailing tuberous begonias, ferns, impatiens or fibrous rooted begonias in combination with trailing plants, such as English ivy.

Bats can be an important weapon for insect control. A brown bat can eat 3,000-7,000 insects per day/night. Attract bats with bat houses. For free plan write to the Virginia Gardener, Department of Horticulture, Virginia Tech, Blacksburg, Va 24061-0327.

June - Indoors

Don't rush to move your houseplants outdoors. Cool weather can cause leaf drop.

Keep cats away from diffenbachia. Diffenbachia contains a chemical that is very irritating to the animal's mouth. It can make the cat's tongue swell and interfere with breathing.

Turn houseplant pots a half turn every two days to promote even growth.

Rubber plants, Eureka palms, Peace lilies, Spider plants and pothos can make your indoor environment healthier by removing pollutants from the air.

July-Edible

Control blossom end rot on tomatoes. Factsheet available.

Mulches help to control blossom end rot on tomatoes. Factsheet on mulches available.

Take the family to one of our local county fairs:

• Champaign County Fair - July 21 - July 29 - 217-367-8461
  
• DuPage County Fair - July 26 - July 31 - 630-688-6636
  
• Kane County Fair - July 18 - July 23 - Fairgrounds 630-584-6926
  
• Lake County Fair - July 25 - July 30 - Fairgrounds 847-223-2204
  
• Porter County Fair (Valparaiso, IN) - July 21 - July 29

Stop in at one of Chicago's many Farmers' Markets. Call 312-744-9187 for a schedule.

July - Ornamental

Check your plants at night with a flashlight for any night feeding insects.

Remove old flowers of perennials. Factsheet available.

Stake tall plants like dahlias and delphiniums.

Enjoy roses indoors by cutting them in the A.M. just above a five leaflet leaf.

Do not plant shrubs. Wait until fall and cooler temperatures.

Established trees need the equivalent of one inch of water per week.

Plant autumn crocus and Resurrection lilies.

Watch for grubs. Factsheet available.

Avoid using Japanese beetle traps. Traps will attract beetles from other areas, but many beetles are not attracted into the trap.

Watch for snails and slugs. Factsheet available.

Control peony leaf spots. Factsheet available.

Mow grass at a three inches height as weather warms. Lawns mowed at higher heights have deeper roots, less weeds and look better.

Watch for white pine needles, yellowing or browning. Factsheet available.

Do not water during warmest part of day. It could result in a major loss of water due to evaporation. Water in the morning.

July -Indoor

Protect houseplants from strong sunlight. Can cause foliage burn.

Monitor houseplants outdoors. Watch for insects.

Spring marks the opening of our local Farmers' Market. With the first Thursday in June, Downtown Chicago's Daley Plaza leads the way as farmers offer the first harvest of the season. More than 2,500 Farmers' Markets are now operating for your tasting pleasure at locations across the nation. For the one nearest you call the USDA at 1-800-384-8704 and request a National Farmers' Market directory or go on line at www.ams.usda.gov/farmersmarkets and click on your home state. For specific information about Illinois visit the University of Illinois Extension's "Illinois Fresh" site at www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/fresh and find the Farmers' Market nearest you.

Fresh Snap Beans with Garlic

Fresh produce should not be overcooked, cook lightly and use very little seasoning. Rely on the fresh taste of the vegetable to challenge your taste buds. Use fresh herbs, garlic, onions, red pepper flakes and/or freshly ground black pepper as flavor enhancers for fresh vegetables. There are more recipes for fresh produce at our "Watch Your Garden Grow" web site.

1 pound fresh snap beans or any variety of fresh green beans
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 teaspoons finely minced garlic
1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes, optional
1/2 cup canned or fresh chicken broth or water

1. Run cold water into the kitchen sink or use a large pan. Wash beans, swishing through the cold water, one handful at a time.
   
2. Remove stem end from beans. Leave whole or snap in half. Set aside.
   
3. Mince garlic and measure chicken broth and pepper flakes; set aside.
   
4. Heat a wok or large heavy bottom pan over high heat. Add oil, garlic and pepper flakes to hot wok. Sauté for about 10 seconds.
   
5. Add beans, tossing with a wooden spoon over high heat. Cook for about 2 minutes, constantly tossing.
   
6. Add chicken broth and quickly cover with a tightly fitting lid. Cook for 10 minutes.

Makes 4 servings.

Any over-the-counter product offering a cure for disease in pill form is probably a fraud. Fraud is the intentional deception to cause a person to give up property or some lawful right through trickery, cheating or artifice. The leading source of fraud in this country is in the area of health and nutrition. There is money to be made on false hopes and the desire to be in better health.

Fraud often travels while attractively cloaked in terms like "marketing" and "advertising." Your best defense is education. Americans waste billions annually on bogus treatments and the promise of simple solutions to serious health problems. Health cons, quacks and frauds have been around since the beginning of time. The traveling medicine show now moves with the greatest of ease via the Internet.

The health food store is filled with bottles, tubes and vials that offer little more than false hope. Learn to question anyone selling a product you did not ask for. Most of the people selling these products are "salesmen" not doctors, nutritionists or even people who care about your health. The Mayo Clinic Health Letter offers these strategies for recognizing worthless treatments. Ask:

• Does it promise too much too easily? Unproven remedies are often promoted as cure-alls, from preventing aging to curing impotence.

• Does it claim immediate or guaranteed results? Few medical treatments produce immediate benefits for chronic conditions. And even proven therapies cannot always guarantee better health.

• Does it include a secret or exclusive formula? Legitimate therapies evolve from data collected and reviewed by many scientists.

• Are testimonials the only proof it works? Unproven remedies are typically endorsed by "satisfied customers." These people may be paid for their comments or lulled by the power of suggestion into the belief they were "cured."

• Does it offer a money-back guarantee? A guarantee is an effective ploy to get you to buy a product. But do not expect anyone to respond to your request for a refund.

If you question a medical treatment, discuss it with your doctor or other health-care professional. Or write to the National Council Against Health Fraud, P. O. Box 1276, Loma Linda, California 92354.

Year after year, we hear and read the same advice: Handle food carefully in the summer because foodborne illness - also known as "food poisoning" - is more prevalent in warmer weather. Do foodborne illnesses increase during the summer months? If so, why?

The Food Safety and Inspection Service (FSIS) looked at the data collected for the first three years of the Foodborne Diseases Active Surveillance Network (FoodNet) project to help answer some of these questions. The FoodNet project was developed to better characterize, understand and respond to foodborne illnesses in the United States. It is a collaborative project between the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, the U. S. Department of Agriculture and the Food and Drug Administration.

Together with state and local health departments in seven selected sites, these agencies work together to collect data on the incidence and causes of foodborne diseases. FoodNet conducts active surveillance to identify confirmed cases of seven targeted pathogenic bacteria. The bacteria targeted are Campylobacter, E.coli 0157:H7, Listeria, Salmonella, Shigella and Yersinia. Data collected has been completed for three years, 1996, 1997 and 1998.

Review of the date showed an increase in laboratory confirmed infections caused by E. coli, Campylobacter and Salmonella during June through August. But why? The answer is actually two-fold.

First, there are the natural causes. Bacteria are present throughout the environment in the soil, air and water and in the bodies of people and animals. These microorganisms grow faster in the warm summer months. Most foodborne bacteria grow fastest at temperatures from 90° - 110°F. Bacteria also need moisture to flourish and summer weather is often hot and humid.

Give the right circumstances, illness-causing bacteria can quickly multiply on food to large numbers. When this happens, anyone eating the food can get sick.

Second, there are the "people" causes for the upswing in summertime foodborne illnesses. Outside activities increase. More people are cooking outside at picnics, barbecues and on camping trips. The safety controls that a kitchen provides - thermostat - controlled cooking, refrigeration and washing facilities - are usually not available.

Fortunately, people seldom get sick from contaminated food they encounter because most people have a healthy immune system. The immune system protects not only from bacteria on food, but from other harmful organisms in the environment. People at greatest risk of illness and even death are children who have underdeveloped systems, senior citizens who have diminishing immune systems due to natural aging, and people with immuno-compromised diseases who have weakened immune systems.

FSIS, other government agencies and food producers go to great lengths to keep food safe, and, of course, consumers can protect themselves at home with proper refrigeration and thorough cooking of perishable foods. Follow these four simple steps to safe food in the summertime.

Clean: Wash hands and surfaces often. Unwashed hands are a prime cause of foodborne illness.

• Whenever possible, wash your hands with hot, soapy water before handling food and after using the bathroom, changing diapers and handling pets.
• When eating away from home, pack clean, wet disposable washcloths and paper towels for cleaning hands and surfaces.

Separate: Don't cross contaminate. Cross contamination during preparation, grilling and serving food is a prime cause for foodborne illness.

• When packing the cooler chest for an outing, wrap raw meats securely; avoid raw meat juices from coming in contact with ready to eat foods.
• Wash plates, utensils and cutting boards that held the raw meat or poultry before using again for cooked food.

Cook to proper temperatures. Food safety experts agree that foods are properly cooked when they are heated for a long enough time and at a high enough temperature to kill harmful bacteria that cause foodborne illness.

• Take a thermometer along. Meat and poultry cooked on a grill often browns very fast on the outside, so be sure that meats are cooked thoroughly. Check temperature with a thermometer.
• Cook hamburger and other ground meats (veal, lamb and pork) to an internal temperature of 160°F and ground poultry to 165°F.
• Cook steaks and roasts that have been tenderized, boned, rolled, etc., to an internal temperature of 160°F for medium and 170°F for well-done. Whole steaks and roasts may be cooked to 145°F for medium rare.
• Whole poultry should be cooked to 180°F in the thigh. Breast meat should be 170°F.
• Cook meat and poultry completely at the picnic site. Partial cooking of foods ahead of time allows bacteria to survive and multiply to the point that subsequent cooking cannot destroy them.

Chill: Refrigerate promptly. Holding food at an unsafe temperature is a prime cause of foodborne illness. Keep cold foods cold!

• Cold, refrigerated, perishable foods like luncheon meats, cooked meats, chicken and potato or pasta salads should be kept in an insulated cooler packed with several inches of ice, ice packs or containers of frozen water.
• Consider packing canned beverages in one cooler and perishable foods in another cooler because the beverage cooler will probably be opened frequently.
• Keep the cooler out of the trunk and place in the shade or shelter, out of the sun whenever possible to help keep foods cold.
• Preserve the cold temperature of the cooler by replenishing the ice as soon as it starts melting.
• If a cooler chest is not an option, consider taking fruits, vegetables, hard cheese, canned or dried meats, dried cereal, bread, peanut butter, crackers and a bottle of refreshing beverage.
• Take-out foods: If you don't plan to eat take-out foods within 2 hours of purchase, plan ahead and chill the food in your refrigerator before packing for your outing.

A word about leftovers. Food left out of refrigeration for more than 2 hours may not be safe to eat. At 90°F or above, food should not be left out over 1 hour. Play it safe; put leftover perishables back on ice once you finish eating so they do not spoil or become unsafe to eat. If you have any doubts, throw it out.

For additional food safety information about meat, poultry or eggs, call the toll-free USDA Meat and Poultry Hotline at 1-800-535-4555. It is staffed by home economists, registered dietitians and food technologists weekdays from 10 am to 4 pm eastern time, year round. An extensive selection of food safety recordings can be heard 24 hours a day using a touch-tone phone.

Information is also available from the FSIS Web site: www.fsis.usda.gov.

Source: Centers for Disease Control "Incidence of Foodborne Illness: Preliminary Data from the Foodborne Disease Active Surveillance Network - United States, 1998." This information was reported in the MMWR March 12, 1999.

What's in Specialty Coffee?

O.K., now that you have paid a small fortune for that cup of specialty coffee, do you know what you are getting? Most people do not. Cappuccino, Mochas, Lattes and other blends are popping up everywhere. Whether hot or iced, it was the drink of the 90's and continues into the new millennium. Watch what goes into your specialty coffee. What about milk? Unless you specify, most coffee bars use whole or 2 percent milk. Skim milk is an option, but you will need to ask for it. Simple whipped cream toppings can add 110 calories and 12 grams of fat. Wow!

Size matters when it comes to specialty coffees. Stick to the smaller sizes and you can generally cut the fat and calories in half. If you are concerned about caffeine, decaf is always available. Get with the specialty coffee bar language. "Small skim decaf mocha, skim – no whip," she said with conviction.

PC Users and Eyestrain

Are you suffering from headaches, tired dry eyes and blurry vision? Most PC users suffer these symptoms sooner or later. But there are some things you can do to save your "PC eyes."

• Use an anti-glare screen (neutral density filter) which can be purchased at most office supply stores. The American Optometric Association's seal of approval will be on the best screens.
• Reduce the glare in your office by drawing the blinds and dimming the lights. Also position your computer as far as possible from the window.
• Place your monitor at or below eye level and directly in front of you. Twenty to twenty-six inches from your face is the best location. Also, tilt the screen upwards slightly, 10 to 20 degrees and keep the screen clean and free of dust.
• Use an upright support, when possible, to mount your work at the same distance from your eyes as the monitor.

If, after taking these precautions, you still have problems, it may be time to see a doctor. Describe your symptoms to an optometrist. You may need prescription reading glasses or bifocals, especially if you are 40 or beyond.

...the true American pastime is snacking? According to research at Columbia University, virtually each one of us will reach for a snack at least once a day, and, half of us reach for a snack two to four times a day. Our favorite snack time is afternoon, which is when we reach for something salty. Next comes the pre-bedtime snack, when we want something sweet. In 1997 these treats added up to 21.6 pounds per American, per the Snack Food Association, which is up more than 2 pounds from a decade ago. Snacking can be okay, but, good choices are the key. Eat only as much as you need to satisfy yourself. If one bite of that candy bar is all you need, wrap it up and save the rest for the same time tomorrow.

...Americans are consuming more added refined sugar than ever before? Last year an average of 156 pounds per person was consumed which is up from 144 in 1994 and 127 in 1986. Much of the consumption is attributed to pop (or sodas, depending on where you are from). Various brands are quickly replacing other more healthy beverages such as water, fruit juice and milk. One 12 ounce can of pop contains 103 percent (10 teaspoons or 40 grams) of the recommended sugar limit set by the U. S. Department of Agriculture. Unfortunately, food labels list only total sugars – the combination of both natural and processed sugars. That could change as health and nutrition groups lobby the Food and Drug Administration to require a separate listing for added sugar on future food labels.

...a diet high in strawberries, blueberries and spinach may boost your brain power? Tufts University neuro-scientists fed rats the equivalent of a pint of strawberries, blueberries or a large spinach salad each day for eight months and found that the rodents fared better on memory tests and showed less age-related mental decline than the group that got standard issue rat chow. The growing season is upon us, so why not add more fruits and vegetables to your diet? For more information about strawberries, visit our web site at www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/strawberries.