Signup to receive email updates
Authors

John Fulton
Former County Extension Director
Recent Posts
Blog Archives
- March 2017 (7)
- February 2017 (2)
- December 2016 (1)
- October 2016 (4)
- September 2016 (7)
- August 2016 (12)
- July 2016 (9)
- June 2016 (11)
- May 2016 (5)
- April 2016 (8)
- March 2016 (11)
- February 2016 (2)
- December 2015 (1)
- November 2015 (2)
- October 2015 (6)
- September 2015 (8)
- August 2015 (9)
- July 2015 (10)
- June 2015 (7)
- May 2015 (6)
- April 2015 (8)
- March 2015 (5)
- October 2014 (3)
- September 2014 (5)
- August 2014 (7)
- July 2014 (10)
- June 2014 (10)
- May 2014 (10)
- April 2014 (8)
- March 2014 (3)
- December 2013 (2)
- October 2013 (6)
- September 2013 (2)
- August 2013 (4)
- July 2013 (4)
- June 2013 (7)
- May 2013 (11)
- April 2013 (8)
- March 2013 (3)
- February 2013 (2)
- November 2012 (1)
- October 2012 (3)
- September 2012 (2)
- August 2012 (1)
- July 2012 (9)
- June 2012 (3)
- May 2012 (6)
- April 2012 (4)
- March 2012 (5)
- January 2012 (1)
- December 2011 (1)
- November 2011 (2)
- October 2011 (7)
- September 2011 (6)
- August 2011 (9)
- July 2011 (11)
- June 2011 (10)
- May 2011 (7)
- April 2011 (10)
- March 2011 (11)
- January 2011 (1)
- November 2010 (1)
- October 2010 (10)
- September 2010 (6)
- August 2010 (6)
- July 2010 (12)
- June 2010 (12)
- May 2010 (12)
- April 2010 (12)
- March 2010 (10)
- February 2010 (3)
- January 2010 (2)
- December 2009 (3)
- November 2009 (4)
- October 2009 (6)
- September 2009 (8)
- August 2009 (10)
- July 2009 (10)
- June 2009 (16)
- May 2009 (9)
- April 2009 (16)
- March 2009 (7)
- February 2009 (1)
- January 2009 (4)
- December 2008 (7)
- November 2008 (2)
- October 2008 (8)
- September 2008 (8)
- August 2008 (10)
- July 2008 (4)
- June 2008 (13)
- May 2008 (10)
- April 2008 (12)
- March 2008 (5)
- February 2008 (2)
- January 2008 (5)
- December 2007 (4)
- November 2007 (4)
- October 2007 (11)
- September 2007 (11)
- August 2007 (12)
- July 2007 (8)
- June 2007 (11)
- May 2007 (18)
- April 2007 (17)
- March 2007 (11)
- February 2007 (3)
732 Total Posts
follow our RSS feed

Tuesday, September 13, 2016
Transplanting Trees
Today I'll attempt to give you a brief outline of transplanting trees. The best time is during dormancy, meaning deciduous trees have lost their leaves. Or, get as close to the dormancy period as you can. Evergreens are never really dormant, so early spring or fall (by the end of October to allow for root growth) are the best times as well for them. Of course, fall close-out sales – and a 12 month guarantee help with taking a little gamble on transplanting. Of course, container grown trees can also be kept in the container until dormant.
The first step is to make sure the tree you have selected is adapted to the site you are wanting to plant in. Drainage, soil type, sun, and space are prime considerations. If you have a sump pump that discharges in a particular area, you don't want a tree there that doesn't like wet conditions. Also, make sure you have adequate room for the mature size of the tree you are planting. One of the most common landscaping mistakes is not allowing enough space. This includes height, since power lines and trees don't get along well together.
There are several different ways trees are sold. They can be bare root, potted in the field, container grown, balled and burlapped, or tree spade dug. Each method has strengths and weaknesses, and a lot of the reason a tree is sold a particular way is due to size. There are some general steps that do apply to all types of trees.
First, you dig a hole. The hole should be at least a foot wider than the size of the root system or container size, with many recommending a hole twice the size of the container. Of course, the direct tree spade planted trees won't have this step. Rough up the sides of the hole as with a shovel, and make sure the top of the hole is at least as wide as the bottom. Don't dig the hole too deep, as filling the hole will then lead to planting too deep due to settling. Many balled and burlap trees are actually set with about a third of the ball above ground level after planting. Soil amendments are OK in small quantities, especially in heavy clay or sandy soils. Organic material and good topsoil are the best amendments. Peat moss can cause problems in clay soils, since it can attract water and make a wet hole for your tree.
Most trees done by homeowners are container grown. To plant these types of trees, you first remove the container at the planting site. If the roots are growing all around the container soil, loosen the roots by rubbing or make a few vertical cuts on the sides to cut the mass of roots and make two cuts on the bottom that form an "x." Plant at least two inches higher than the soil level to allow for settling.
Other types of trees have some slight variations at planting time, with bare root being the most different. Bare root plantings need to have air pockets tamped to begin with, the roots straightened and spread in the hole, then the tree needs to be gently raised and lowered as soil is added to work out air pockets.
After-planting care is very important. Usually five to seven gallons of water is needed each week. Do it once a week. Mulch with a three to six inch layer of mulch such as wood chips, and go out from the trunk for three to six feet. Keep the mulch away from direct contact with the trunk, and don't use plastic under the mulch as it can suffocate roots and hold in too much water. A little fertilizer is OK. Too much, especially in the fall, is bad. Lawn fertility rates are fine, and phosphorus and potassium can be added at any time.